Went to NAPA and looked at the ECH OP6741, but the threaded tang for sender wire was not like mine; cross reference in NAPA book got me an OP 6613. I put it in, hooked it up, and took a 50 mile drive today--no problems. Thanks again for the help. Now, onto Kanter's to order a front u-joint, after I've measured my driveshaft to make sure I have the JR one.

Now that I've got my oil light problem solved, another one crops up.

It appears that the front universal joint on my 53 Clipper Dlx needs some work; the boot gave up in the middle of the Mojave Desert(and I thought I had hit a small animal crossing the freeway!), and now the joint's spewing grease all over the undercarriage.

I've talked to my mechanic and to Kanter and need to determine if it's a 2 1/2" or a 2 3/4' driveshaft, before ordering the part from Kanter.

My mechanic says there has been problems with said Detroit joints and wonders if I should take the car to a driveshaft shop and have a different part cobbled in. I'm talking to him today about the options. Kanter says the part is a bolt in.

I'm prone to go with the bolt in.

What are the experts' suggestions.

Thanks

Thanks all: the problem seems to be solved. I replaced the sending unit and not even a flicker at idle.

Thanks again

As Laughlin attendees know, my 53 Clipper Dlx had some electrical and oil light gremlins. I got her home safely, but the oil light still goes on intermittently. Using a mechanical gauge, I got the following readings:

idle at start: 26 psi
idle when warm: 27-28 psi
oil light is on at idle

oil pressure when revved up: 34-38 psi

Is this low? Should I be concerned? Is a rebuild of oil pump recommended.

I'm running Wolfshead 15-40 synthetic blend.

Thanks

My 2 cents here

Thanks to all for your hospitality at this, my first Packards event. My 53 ran great--aside from the electric gremlins, falsely indicating an oil pressure problem: A rod knock free 750 miles round trip, with less body fatigue from driving than I get in my DTS on 150 mile trips! Ask this man who owns one, indeed! I'm imaging how much nicer she'll ride with the new weatherstripping to silence the wind noise.

Thanks to Craig for the gas--I now know that my gas gauge is accurate! And thanks to Paul and Sue Ann (56 Exec with those cool wheels/covers and air shifter, and a 56 Clipper El Packero in the works), Wayne (48 FATPAC--way Kool), Frank (smooth 46 Clip with retro 80s interior), KevinAZ (gorgeous 55 400), Orv (48 #1+ restoration), and others whose names escape me now--is it John with the 53 factory hot rod Clipper, and Duane with the 55 2-tone blue Clipper?

And, most of all, Big Kev for putting it all together. I love the hubcap trophy idea!

I'll be seeing some of you in Orange County in Feb.

Now, on to some body work on my dimpled roof--thanks for the bodywork advice Frank, Paul, and BigKev--it's off to Harbor Freight for the body hammer.

Oh by the way, brother-in-law Ruben thinks Packards are cool, but his automobile OCD has him obsessing on 58 Impalas! Whatever to get him off his Harley!


Lynn

I'm currently working on that dilemma as well. My spotlights have little side view mirrors which are, essentially, useless. Mike Gossard at the Murphy Auto Museum in Oxnard, CA showed me some side views he made up for a 47 limo. He used strips of 1" stainless, about 6" long, attaching a standard side view mirror to the strip, and then attaching the stainless bracket to the trim under the vent window with screws through the trim. They look period correct and appear to do the job.

For my 53 Clipper Deluxe, I've bought two swan neck mirrors from speedway motors

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Swan-Neck-Mirror,2262.html

They have a nice curved stem that partially approximates the swan hood ornament, and appear to be relatively period-correct!

I plan to copy Mike's design and fabricate a similar stainless steel bracket to mount them, although there seems to be a bit of an interference problem with full operation of the vent window.

Well, the old girl is on the road. 3 weeks with Mike Gossard, Packard Mechanic at Packard Museum in Oxnard, CA got trans gasket changed, brakes rebuilt, a new 3-core radiator, and a used Autolite generator he had laying around, replacing the worn-out Delco.

Initial road trip to get new tires caused water pump to destroy itself, while generator packed it in as well! All in 150 miles!

Next day air from Max Merrit got a new water pump, and similar expedited shipping for a 6-v + ground alternator from New Jersey. Son-in-law and I fabricated an alt bracket from 2" angle iron and 1" square tubing; a new 44 5/8" fan belt, a 4 ga starter cable to connect alt to bat terminal, and she fired up for the 150 mile trip home.

Labor day's labors: change oil--Rotella very dirty after 350 miles; waterless wash and spray wax, and clean-up of new True-Spoke Wire Wheels and Vogue Tyres! She's looking pretty sharp.

Next on docket: touch-up of paint chips, a detail job, new seat covers, Cool-it/Acoustical mat under carpet to defray melted driver's feet, plus some tweaking of electrical to get horn, radio, and power antenna working, and some rubber goods around wind wings.

Lots of work but everyone notices the car; I don't know if I like all the attention!

Still planning on the Laughlin trip, although I don't think wife wants to drive 7 hr w/o a/c! Son-in-law has a full unit from a Jeep Wagoneer, needing only (?) hoses and freon, not to mention fabricated brackets. Perhaps Vintage Air makes a 6-volt model, but then I'm on my way to a money pit.

For some reason they appear greenish in the iphone pictures posted; they in real live color are gray.

The more into my 53 ClipDlx, I'm getting convinced of a frame off restore. Crawling around the car, changing oil & waiting for tran and hypoid oil deliveries before pan drops, I wonder: given how clean and painted the oil pan, Torque C cover, and trans pan seem (this one complete with plenty of permatex-type goop) is it necessary to pull them to de-sludge. ATF is clear red & doesn't smell burnt. Oil was reasonably clean. I've attached some pictures to show how clean it is; a crawl inspection of undercarriage revealed 2 minor rust spots: 1)Left rear quarter by fender skirt 2)another where two floor panels join, right rear. All is painted gloss black; all rubber grommets/bushings do not appear to be originals--they're intact, not rotted like 60-yr olds. I've attached some pictures--evidence of clean!

What advice comes from the experts reading this? For sure, ATF gets replaced,as does diff. oil. Engine oil and filter have been replaced; a radiator flush comes once I get it off stands with new oils.

I found the build slip. It reads:

KO 22154 AT HE RPE WS FS VM CL.. Key PU. 040

Galahad Green/Orchard Green 2-tone, Ultramatic, Heat, Radio w/pwr ant, whitewalls, trunk light, night mirror; what's CL?

There's a 95 on the build sheet--is that the trim code (green bedford cloth?); it's stamped either Jun or Jul 15, 1953. The 3rd letter after Ju is unclear.

This date does not jibe with the date stamped on the frame--under right rear door: see photo 1.
OS 8-17-53
Pack 326212-81.
122
I assume the 122 is the wheelbase. But if the frame was marked on 8-17-53 and the build sheet says Jun/Jul 15, 53, was the body built before the frame?

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Orv:

thanks for the recommendation of the mechanic; I work in Oxnard so I'll give him a call.

I'm aiming to have the car well road ready for the Nevada adventure in Nov.