To fix the floppy wiper, experimenting, I found that threading a short screw into the hole on the top of the wiper arm bottom, actually allowed it to work. The only other change is I may replace the weakened spring with a stiffer one in the wiper arm. The photo shown does not have that screw in place, but I put in where what looks like a collar on the wiper arm resides.

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My wiper system seems to be working now, but the right side wiper doesn't (although turning under the dash). Is the arm splined for removal? There is a threaded hole in the top for some reason, unless it's used for the arm removal. That is screwing a bolt in there to push the spline off. I hesitate to do much, other than loosening the retaining nut, for fear of breaking it. I've included a photo. Thank you for whatever help anyone is able to offer.

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Thank you for that quick reply. I'll check out that site and get the part for the steering. I've removed the dash panel center piece, got the heater hose out of the way, and hope to check out the wiper motor soon. The access isn't too bad, since the clock and some of the other wiring isn't functional. There's a nonworking fan under the passenger side of the front seat. I've always wondered if it was an option.But... it's a beautiful old car, so I'll see what I can do for her. And again, thank you for the assistance.

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I've been told at the inspection station that I have a loose steering bell crank bushing on my 1941 120. Can it be tightened or do I have to find a new bushing? The wipers don't work also, so I'm going to pull that unit and see what's wrong with it. I never take it out in the rain and use a rain product in case, but this station says they have to work.

I approach this from a slightly different perspective.
If the car is original and parts are available, I'd leave it original. As said if the system is good, 6V works just fine.
If it's in need of parts or major electrical repairs, I'd make the switch. I tend to think long term.
There's alot of mystique around why industry changed, but if you look at battery technology, by nature, a lead sulfuric cell makes a little over 2 VDC. So it's just a matter of how many cells you series to get multiples of 2+ volts. As cell design improved, they could get more cells in the same space. The original 6V's were long and took up much space and weight. Compare with the optima of today.
The other side of this is current density. How much amperage you can get per cell. As I've said before at 6V's you need twice as much current to do equivalent work at twice the voltage. (Power(watts) = volts times amps) Why you need those bigger diameter cables.
Then there's positive versus negative ground and the impacts. The negative side is the cathode and electrons travel to the cathode. So the "body" is supplying electrons to make the conductor path in negative ground (12V) and the anode or plus side is supplying in the case of positive ground (6V) so there's slightly more demand and chance to draw down the battery with positive ground. But a good disconnect on the battery if you don't drive it alot is an adequate solution.
Generator(6V) vs alternator(12V) is another aspect but I'll leave that one alone for this discussion

Thanks Fish'in Jim - that's a very helpful,informative explanation. I had especially wondered about the positive ground. An alternator, rebuilt with regulator (6,12,or 8v) in the generator case can be done. Jay Leno had it done on some of his cars with excellent results by Don Allen (Gener-Nator). It's a bit pricey $900 though, so that's why I'm trying to decide on what approach to take with the car. With 12v, I would always have bulbs and other accessories, but as you say, 6v has many positives.

O.K. - it's looking like a change to 8v is not a good idea. So, is going the more thorough change to 12v offer any advantages or disadvantages? I've been told fuel economy is better. Granted it is more expensive and work, but the car need not look different if it's done right. With the battery under the seat, that's not even visible.

A purist might object, but I'm interested in reliability and driving the car more, with retirement in the very near future. Plus, I plan to put seat belts in it - a move that will encourage my wife to ride in it. She's very safety conscious.... not a bad thing. No plans to hotrod it ever, since I want to keep it somewhat original. It does get noticed.

Checking electrics will be first on the list, thanks to the suggestions here. I do have a new pair of halogen headlights that I bought at the museum and have never installed.

I'll check around for a new wiring harness or try replacing some lines. Did 8v spin the starter faster to allow for better starts?

For a while now I've debated going to 8v or 12v for my '41 120. For those of you that have switched, did you encounter any problems or in the case of 8v upgrades, still a desire to go to 12v? The weak lights and slow starting just don't make it for me anymore. I could enjoy the car a lot more with a change, but don't know if just a new 8v battery would do it.

I now own a 2014 C7 Stingray (another wish come true) and the 1941 Packard, so I have the best of both worlds, old and new. I would love to hear from Packard owners who have upgraded to a higher voltage and if they are happy with it. I do show the vehicles, but the points difference wouldn't bother me. Dim lights coming home from the shows does though. Thanks guys (and girls) for any info.