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The tail lights on my 38 were quite dim, I had good voltage going to the bulbs but when I ran an additional ground wire they really brightened up. Also whilst at Hershey one year I bought a LED third brake light bar and mounted it above my license plate.

Said it before, say it again: I run my Packard on 6 volts and everything works just fine. The starter spins plenty fast (I have proper size battery cables). 6 volt light bulbs are usually stamped 6-8V because 6 volts systems charge up to 7.5 volts. The higher the voltage on an incandescent bulb, the shorter the life of the bulb. Incandescent lamps are nearing extinction so I want to make mine last until the end.

I use an Optima 6 volt battery and no problem starting. I realize Phoenix AZ doesn't get far below freezing.


Jim

I'm with the crew, 8 volt is a crutch of the incompetent. In addition to all of the good advice about cable gauge (essential) have your starter motor gone over completely, not just for electrical integrity but for mechanical integrity as well. I have seen starters with bad bushings that were trying to do the right thing, but couldn't. I can make a 6 volt car crank over, start, run, charge--no problem. It's not that difficult.

O.K. - it's looking like a change to 8v is not a good idea. So, is going the more thorough change to 12v offer any advantages or disadvantages? I've been told fuel economy is better. Granted it is more expensive and work, but the car need not look different if it's done right. With the battery under the seat, that's not even visible.

A purist might object, but I'm interested in reliability and driving the car more, with retirement in the very near future. Plus, I plan to put seat belts in it - a move that will encourage my wife to ride in it. She's very safety conscious.... not a bad thing. No plans to hotrod it ever, since I want to keep it somewhat original. It does get noticed.

Checking electrics will be first on the list, thanks to the suggestions here. I do have a new pair of halogen headlights that I bought at the museum and have never installed.

No. Keep it 6-volt, and I don't say that because I'm a purist. It's a lot more work for no gain in reliability.

I've been told fuel economy is better

Boy does that seem improbable. I'd like to see data supporting that, and an explanation of why there could possibly be any measureable difference in fuel economy.

I am pondering what to do voltage-wise when I rewire also, one big reason that I see to switch to 12 volt is ease of support - meaning if something quits and I need a jump sometime it is no hassle. If still 6 volt then there is a hassle, things to watch, make sure no lights are on, etc. Plus less searching around for that 6 volt accessory or workaround to use something more modern.

That's the biggest reason that I can see to switch to the more modern standard. Once it is done, no more work needed for upkeep and support. And since I must rewire everything on my car anyway, no real extra work upfront.

I approach this from a slightly different perspective.
If the car is original and parts are available, I'd leave it original. As said if the system is good, 6V works just fine.
If it's in need of parts or major electrical repairs, I'd make the switch. I tend to think long term.
There's alot of mystique around why industry changed, but if you look at battery technology, by nature, a lead sulfuric cell makes a little over 2 VDC. So it's just a matter of how many cells you series to get multiples of 2+ volts. As cell design improved, they could get more cells in the same space. The original 6V's were long and took up much space and weight. Compare with the optima of today.
The other side of this is current density. How much amperage you can get per cell. As I've said before at 6V's you need twice as much current to do equivalent work at twice the voltage. (Power(watts) = volts times amps) Why you need those bigger diameter cables.
Then there's positive versus negative ground and the impacts. The negative side is the cathode and electrons travel to the cathode. So the "body" is supplying electrons to make the conductor path in negative ground (12V) and the anode or plus side is supplying in the case of positive ground (6V) so there's slightly more demand and chance to draw down the battery with positive ground. But a good disconnect on the battery if you don't drive it alot is an adequate solution.
Generator(6V) vs alternator(12V) is another aspect but I'll leave that one alone for this discussion.

"those big diameter cables"

That's the reason for the switch. Copper is expensive. All about the $$$.

For years I fought hard starting on my 41 120 when it was hot,with all of the above. Ten or so years ago I put in a series-parallel switch with two 6v Optimas and have not had a problem sense.
If your wiring is orignal a new harness will brighten up your lights. Greg