Checked under my 39 and the cable goes through a hole which can be seen under the driver side fender where the fender and the body comes together.

I would be interested in the radio head.

Lowell

Would you explain how those copper colored clamps work when welding? Good pictures but I may have missed it.

Thanks
Lowell

I know you have your hands full with all this sheet-metal work but don't forget to replace your brake lines while you have good access to the chassis.

Will they also need to be positive ground?

Thanks,
I can see the blower would be a problem for they are such amp hogs.
Holding the clutch in with the 12 volts would not be a problem till the voltage drifted down to the 7.5 V area, when the friction problem you mentioned would be critical.
Could have a cutout at 8 or 9 v but you would lose your AC then.
I raised this issue again under the Subject becuse it seemed to die out with a whimper last August.

"Also need to control the 12v to inside unit if tied in to regular system"

1. Could you explain that a little?

2. Also, would the 12v clutch pull down a large battery quickly?

3. I had a A Model Ford set up with a 8V battery. Little in the way of insruments but was hard on the old generator at night keeping the sealed beams bright. Especially when I tried to set up a heater blower. Motors are amp hogs.

Why could one just add another 6 v battery in series just to trip and keep the 12volt clutch engaged?
Keep everything else on 6V coming off the 1st battery?

What was your final solution to the 6 v A.C. situation?

Thanks for the photo, I can see it now.
Will get them squared away Friday as my car is 20 miles away now.

Lowell