John: Thanks for the expert clarification! I now realize that distributors which advance the spark by moving the rotor SHAFT, must move the shaft in SAME direction as shaft rotation to advance.

Whereas distributors which move the BREAKER PLATE to advance, move the breaker plate in the direction OPPOSITE of shaft rotation to advance.

It does make a difference which type is being considered!

Distributor is Delco 662W from a '36 1401 Eight. I'm questioning its operation because a timing light check showed the spark retarding as engine speed increased.

Pulling the distributor, removing the breaker base plate and spreading the weights by hand causes the rotor shaft to shift clockwise; the same direction as the shaft rotates while in car.

Obviously, this is incorrect, as advancing the spark requires the shaft move in the opposite (counterclockwise) direction.

So, my question is: Are the internal parts pictured here correct for the Delco 662W, or has someone inserted incorrect parts? (I colored the weights so they'll stand-out in the photo and marked the location of the two springs with yellow lines). I tried repositioning the weights but this is the only positioning in which the parts "mesh" and move smoothly.


Thanks for any advice or words of wisdom!

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All: I have several questions pertaining to a '36 Standard Eight fuel pump:

1) What is the overall length of the fuel pump ACTIVATION ROD?

2) Were the Super Eight and/or Twelve rods different?

3) I'd appreciate a posting of a photo looking down upon the fuel pump as installed in the car. Also a photo of the rod, if you have one out, would help. (A '35 Standard Eight is probably the same.......?????). Thanks, Bill. (petrofanz@comcast.net)

Hello members: Does anyone have experience curing a '36 Packard Stromberg EE-23 carb that tends to leak excessive quantities of fuel into the intake manifold, and onto floor through drain tube; even after only idling?

Float level is correct; even tried reducing it slightly. New needle/seat. Float "floats." Fuel pump pressure is 5 lbs. No sign of cracks.

Carb was professionally rebuilt, but problem persists. Thanks in advance for or any insights.

Just a thought: Have you adjusted the carb-idle mixture screws lately? Backfire through the tailpipe (technically called an afterfire) when you're coasting can be caused by turning-in the idle adjustment too far, creating a lean mixture that doesn't ignite until it's in the tailpipe with hot exhaust.

If you get "pops" when you're off-throttle, try enriching your idle-mixture, and see if the backfire goes away.

I've never done this kind of running board job, BUT in the old days, formica installers would lay thin strips of bare wood between the formica and the countertop to keep the two contact cement-coated surfaces from touching.

Once the laminate was properly positioned, the wooden strips/sticks would be sequentially be pulled-out, thus lowering the formica onto the countertop, where it would be pressed tight.

Trying to "drop" an entire length of running board rubber into place without this technique sounds like an invite for a major headache! Bill.

I'd like to re-do the poorly-done woodgraining job on the dash of a '36 1401 covertible coupe. Before I do, I want to be sure no incorrect holes are left in the dash.

To that end, some people tell me the left wiper switch should be located in the dash, directly above the steering column, and the right wiper switch located to the left of the right-hand glove box door.

Other folks say both wiper switches should be positioned in the grouping containing the ignition switch, starter button, lighter, etc.

Would anyone care to weigh-in as to which view is correct? Thanks, Bill.