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I checked out what I needed to do to drain the coolant from my 37, 120 today and it does not look easy!! The radiator pet cock is in an almost impossible place to get to it. The operator's manual says you have to drain the block also and the plug is in the rear of the block. I did find a small plug on the driver's side of block just above and behind the starting motor. Is this the plug? I tried to unscrew it with out any luck.

Any suggestions as to "easy" ways to attack these plugs,

Rod

Hi Rod,
I just happened to be doing some bath tub reading last night from "Classic Car Restoration's Handbook" by Jim Richardson. Rather than risk damaging the petcock(s), he suggested removing the lower radiator hose as a safer, altho messier alternative. Seems to me that would also drain the block as well. Perhaps some of the real experts could comment on this method.
Mark

Hard to believe a pair of visegrips firmly attached to the block drain plug, after saturating same with the usual liquid wrench -- lower and/or upper case, lest i be accused of product placement -- won't eventually loosen the plug. Counterintuitive, mayhaps, but an auld aircraft/auto mechanic/machinist taught me years ago to try tightening something stuck, then loosening it.

If this is either an original engine or one overhauled an epoch ago, it's a good idea to run a piece of welding rod, etc. in the back of the block while you flush it with a hose. Waterproof the starter and dipstick with plastic, etc.

On my '40 120 and current '47 356, i added a brass stand off pipe with a drain on the end threaded into the side of the block in lieu of that plug. This way, you can drain the block in the future without running water over the oil dipstick hole/starter. The proximity of rear block drain/oil dipstick not one of Packard's brighter moments.

Rod,

I think your 120 is like my 115C. You are correct the drain cock is almost impossible to get to. Here is how I open the radiator drain on my 37 Six.

I use a long socket wrench extension; although, a long wooden dowel or cut-off broom stick should also work. I place one the end of the extension on the end of the drain cock that moves. I gently, very gently, tap the other end of the extension with a hammer to loosen the drain cock. After it is open I use the extension to unscrew it some more to allow the radiator to drain. To tighten the drain cock, simply reverse the procedure.

I have found this works well and is quick and easy.

I must caution you to only lightly, very lightly, tap on the drain cock when loosening and tightening it to avoid any damage.

(o[]o)