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I replaced the ignition points this weekend in my 37 120 coupe convertible and it was not easy, at least the way I did it. Is there an easy way to install the stud without removing the distributor? Secondly, I now need to check the timing. I have read the manual and it talks about looking in the hole under the starter. Again, is there a trick to looking in the hole and setting the distributor timing?
Thanks for any advise,
Rod

I'm not sure what the "stud" is that you speak of, but best practice for installing points is to remove the distributor. This gives you the opportunity to check it thoroughly for worn cam or shaft bushings, lubricate the breaker plate and centrifugal advance weights, check the ground strap, etc. Also if the points are the the two-piece set, you'll want to use a loupe to adjust the contact faces. And whenever you replace the points you should also replace the condenser. And don't forget to oil the felt wick under the rotor.

As to timing, several options - you can either do it "by ear" or just use a timing light - if it's a 12-volt light just hook it up to a 6-volt battery charger. I know about the timing marks on the flywheel, but have you checked for timing marks also on the vibration damper? It helps to put a dab of contrasting paint on both the pointer and the proper degree line. You can also get timing pretty close by doing it statically, put a 6-volt test bulb across the points and set the #1 piston to the compression stroke and on the flywheel timing mark and then just adjust the distributor (without invoking the centrifugal advance!) so the bulb is just flickering.

You might browse this for a little familiarity on distributors:packardclub.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=861

For timing:packardclub.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=865

I set the ignition timing on my '37 115C (similar to your 120C) once using the marks on the flywheel. I removed the LF tire and inner fender panel. Easy enough to see the marks through the hole in the bell housing and access to the distributor this way. Before reassembling, I made a pointer out of heavy wire and fastened it to one of the timing chain cover bolts. I then marked the damper with some white paint to correspond to marks on the flywheel. Now timing adjustments are easy.

Your distributor may also have an "Octane Adjustment" on the bracket fastening the distributor to the engine. It allows for minor timing changes by loosening thumb screws and moving the distributor. It was a feature to allow owners to take advantage of differing gasoline quality back in the day.

(o{}o)

Before reassembling, I made a pointer out of heavy wire and fastened it to one of the timing chain cover bolts. I then marked the damper with some white paint to correspond to marks on the flywheel.

BRILLIANT!

BTW, my 34 instructions also say to use timing marks on the flywheel; there is no access hole so you're supposed to remove the starter motor - no fun with the engine running if you're going to use a timing light. But sure enough the timing marks (and pointer) were also on the front vibration damper though this wasn't indicated in the service literature - perhaps that was a change done after the service letters were published.

My old 1940 120 had a church key (can opener to you youngsters) soldered onto the flywheel cover to work as a pointer for timing. For the longest time, I thought it was stock....

Quote:

Thats awesome, in the best possible way.

Just read Daves writeup on removal of the distributor. Very informative and sounds much simpler than I expected. Certainly beats hunching under a fender, or leaning over the fender. Theres a lot of leaning and streching on a 41 120.