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After 3 months of work, my Packard is back on the road after a total engine rebuild.

Engine is significantly more powerful and smooth, not to mention quiet! I actually use the rare factory glovebox door mounted tachometer when I come to a light as the engine is so smooth and quiet, I think it died!

And a big side benny, I can and will have the hood open at the next car shows to show off the majestic engine bay, something my late Dad always wanted to do with this car.

Now that all is so quiet, a noise I had prior to the rebuild, is a resounding THUMP from the brake or clutch pedal if you let them pop up by themselves. I do not see any "shock absorber" material or bumper that could stop that. Only thing close is what I refer to as the pedal shaft bellow seals, of which the durometer is so soft I do not see them doing anything except keeping the outside out

Suggestions ?

I'm not sure but letting the pedal pop up might lead to a rapid release/engagement of the brakes and clutch causing a thump that might be absorbed if the pedals are gradually released. Is there any particular reason the pedals need to be uncontrollably released in this manner, it's not usually done like that, is it?

Check out STEEL RUBBER site
These are for a 37 115c ( did not see your year)
These require the Brake and Clutch arms to be removed from the car and the seals slid over the pedal end and then reinstalled.


Brake and clutch shank seal
p/n: 30-0143-24

Boot, brake and clutch pedal shank at toe board.Length: 2.9375 inches.

Simply taking my foot off the brake, not easing my foot off, such as leaving a traffic light, results in the thump. Same thump can be duplicated with clutch pedal, although I never "dump" the clutch

Thanks Larry

I have these parts, obviously not installed properly if they are to prevent this noise. I do not, however, see how a rubber piece this soft can prevent that noise

Seems to me, pedal shank does not need to be removed, but pedals themselves do, via removal of a 5/16" nut and bolt located just behind the pedal. Then, if these parts fit forward of the firewall, the access plate around the pedals could be removed

Mine is a 39

If these are supposed to subdue this noise, the "bellows" portion faces forward, under the floorboard?

The arm seals serve a dual purpose. When the pedal is up the large portion is pressed against the toe board holes to seal out wind and odors from the engine compt and the second purpose is the bellows portion do act as sort of a shock absorber to slow and cushion the abrupt stop of the pedal against the metal.

They do install as you describe. The metal plates at the end of the arms which hold the rubber pedal pads are attached to the arms with one bolt. Those plates are removed and when off and carpet is pulled back the floor toe plate with holes the arms go thru can be removed. On some cars, in order to pull the carpet back to access the screws holding the toe plate the accelerator also needs to be removed.

Once arms are clear, the seals are pushed on with the small end down. I would suggest you clean the arms well and then use some silicone spray or dish washing liquid as a lubricant before pushing the seals down the arm. On later years at least, that small end rests against a flattened platform like area on the pedal arm. Once installed the toe plate is replaced and seals should push down slightly taking the pedal with them and provide a solid seal to the plate.

I believe some have mentioned that Steele's items are fairly soft rubber and IMO, they do not seem to last very long before the rubber cracks at the bellows and the pieces separate. After that experience on mine I wound up making a mold using a deteriorated set as a pattern to get the approx shape and thickness. Kept the original flat rubber end of a broken seal for the top and replaced the middle bellows portion with an expandable flexible urethane foam product which bonded to the other piece to provide a stronger yet still slightly compressible center.