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Attached is the knob from the light switch on the dash panel of my 1952 200.
I started the car yesterday to take for a drive around the neighborhood. as I always do I start the car and while she is warming up I check all lights, signal, switches, horn etc.... hi beam switch and so on
about the third time I pulled the light switch it just kept coming out (LOL).
it was actually very funny. Ha Ha,
but now how do I get it back together?
I looked through this site ,but have not found any help.
Does anyone have any experience with this repair?

thanks
tim

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the length of the shaft in the photo is flat and the rest is round.

There is a little clip that fits into that notch in the end, you'll have to take the switch apart

Here is an exploded view of the switch.

The notch in the shaft fits in a slot in the metal piece that carries the sliding contact. It is possible the bakelite portion on top of switch holding the terminals has broken allowing the top to move away from retaining the slider in the switch. Slider only needs to raise a bit and shaft can come out of the slot or possibly the slot itself has become damaged and shaft pulled thru.

NOTE: Just realized the first photo was somewhat incorrect. The triangular brass sliding contact and phenolic support plate was shown 180 out. The small pointed end should be on the battery side, not the terminal side. A correct photo is posted now.

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thank you so much. that picture is fantastic.
I will work some more tomorrow.
tim

Except I goofed and the first photo was not that fantastic. I just realized I never deleted that one and it was slightly incorrect. The triangular brass sliding contact and the phenolic it rides on was shown 180 out on the first photo. The small pointed end should be on the battery side contacts. Replaced it with a photo having the correct orientation.

Whilst you have the switch out, take the opportunity to replace the circuit breaker. They lose capacity over the years and eventually leave you with blinking lights. It is about 1 minute's work to install a new Napa 782-3107. It is a lot of reliability for the money.

thanks for the tip ross, sounds like good advice.
God only knows how long it will take me to complete this task......LOL
the funny part of this is every year since I have hadthis car when I need to get my safety inspection I am delayed by necessary repairs. .......LOL.
thanks all for your help and advice
tim

wow, a new switch is like $150.00. core charge $75.00.
when I get the switch apart I can see about the clip for the end of the shaft. this will be interesting.....

Not sure about a clip on your existing switch. You might need two -- one on either side of the metal sliding piece if the slot is where the problem is. If the slot is the issue perhaps the groove on shaft could be widened and an E shaped clip could go on both sides of the metal sliding piece so the extra circumference of the clip would have solid metal to pull or push against. If the phenolic has broken and let the sliding piece move out of position then that is more of a problem.
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Amen on the switch prices. 55-6 switches are just as bad. When I had to replace mine the cheap side in me came front and center. Fortunately I had the tools and time so was able to make what was needed to adapt a modern $20 universal GM switch. Like all my mods, nothing in the car was changed. If the next owner wants to buy a stock switch it will go right back in.

The basic GM style switch itself would work on your car although being a 12v switch and somewhat lighter in capacity I would add a pair of relays and a separate breaker to work the actual bulbs on a 6v car. IMO, relays and a separate feed are a good idea on all of our old headlight and dimmer switches to get the high current out of them. Some report the bulbs are brighter too by not having to go thru all the extra wiring from headlight switch to dimmer switch to bulb.

The issue with adapting a new GM switch to 6v operation would be the ohms in dash light rheostat is too high on those switches for 6v. Without changing the resistance the dash lights would not work properly. They would be OK at the very end but turning the knob would rapidly dim them so as not to be bright enough to see at all after just a few degrees of turn.

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