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My '48 Custom 8 is now running and has brakes. Its idle is uneven and it doesn't rev up very far. I've replaced plugs, points, wires, condenser and just replaced the coil. I need to time it, but can't see any timing marks on the lower pulley/harmonic balancer. It was quite corroded and I have sanded it off to the point where marks should be visible, I think. Does anyone have a photo of the timing marks so I know what I'm looking for. I've timed many cars and usually the marks clear enough to then mark with paint or chalk.

The car has sat for about 12 years. I was surprised when draining the transmission and OD to get a lot of water out of each. The OD had more water than the remaining horrible, milky oil that was left. The cable to the OD is stuck and the car wants to run in OD and freewheel all the time. Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Bob

Here are a couple of views of timing marks from training manuals and another of my 356 engine. The stampings are not very deep and my damper has been painted so the marks are fairly faint.

The OD may require a full disassembly. The water may have corroded or done other damage. To lock out OD in the R9 there is a sleeve which moves over splines between the planetary and another gear to lock them together to work as a unit. The sleeve has to be free to move and the water may have done something to prevent that.

The cable will probably need to come out and soak in solvent or penetrating fluid. It is a steel wire inside a steel housing and could be well rusted. Another poster found the rod and outer sleeve at the end of cable next to the clevis had rusted together on his car so another place to check. Be careful and don't try and force the knob while the cable is stuck. The housing is held to the pot metal under dash bracket by being inserted in a thin crimped section of the metal. If forced, the cable can be pushed out of the pot metal and split the crimped section in the process.

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Thanks for you quick reply and the photos. Now I know what to look for, but the markings must be pretty faint. It isn't easy to get close in either.

Thanks also for the warning about not pulling too hard on the OD handle

I sure hope the OD doesn't have to come out. I have a receipt for a rebuild on the tranny and OD from sometime in the 80's or 90's.

I had to sand for a long time to find the marks then used "Marks a lot" white marking grease or paint whatever it is to mark the lines.

I did finally find the timing marks. Lots of sanding and then they were pretty faint. Now to get the vacuum line disconnected. They are pretty well rusted on. Timing with the vacuum line on is about 10 degrees BTDC. I rather doubt that the vacuum advance is working, but will disconnect to make sure.

I hate to say it but based on your description, you really should pull out and totally disassemble the running gear (engine, transmission, O.D., clutch, rear axel) and clean it up from the inside out. Otherwise you may end up damaging it beyond repair while as it is you might stand a chance of saving it. If nothing is seriously rusted, you'll end up with only some labor and cost of gaskets and seals. Also and at the minimum, make sure that oil pickup float isn't rusted away as it likely will be if it's been left in water.

Hey boB, dropping the oil pan (which you'll want to do anyway to clean the inevitable sludge) will tell you a lot about the internal condition of the engine at least. Then you can act on that observation to decide how much further you need to go.