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Guy's

As promised part 2 the gearbox side a exploded view of the international exploded parts of the gearbox.

Because the fun does not end at the converter!

First all the good stuff,

Front bell in good shape as is the front oil pump minor/minute to no scoring. Input shaft all ok as is the drum and friction band and plates.
Then we can skip to the parking lock actuator at the back and the output shaft these are good.

BUT what is not so great i can hear you say...well:

-the planetaries that is where we start the lid from the (friction plates drum) this is a lid with a planetarie gear on it it runs against another planetarie gear these two have a thrust washer between them that decided to explode so this washer needs to be replaced and the faces of the gears are damaged gear lid side worse then the other.
What would be the options new gear/in lathe mill down and new or dubbele washer? New/good used one is best but where to source from. Planetaries did chewy up some metal but gear faces are still good minimal damage.

-planetarie housing shaft (where rear oil pump connects) is damaged by broken oilpump gear but the worst damage is in the oilpump side not the seal faces/rings(oil pressure side) so maybe can get away with a cleaning up of the shaft.

-rear oil pump insiders decided to also explode so inside ring and housing are scored and complete pump needs to be replaced.

-parking lock gear ring also completely destroyed this needs to be replaced.

Well this is about it i think and dont forget this still did drive😂
But because of a bad end seals and bearing between gearbox and converter it started leaking.

Please if you know/have some of the parts or have good ideas let me know.
As with the converter i like to rebuild it and get the car on the road.
But some things a not easy to find especially where i live (Europe)
And i hope this could be a guide for others that are in this same situation.

Hello,

Well this is what unluckily happens when the transmission is not updated per the service letters issued, in 1955-56.

Fortunately everything you listed so far (entire planetary assembly, rear pump, rear pump driver) is inexpensive from USA as most people don't need them.

You again need to make a list of the journal and thrust bearings that you will need.

On the high range clutch assembly, it's very simple to pry off the snap ring and dump out the clutch pack as shown in the service manual. I'm sure you will see they are worn and hence need to be replaced. The lip seal inside also, but don't take the engaging piston apart without the help of a press tool as shown in the manual, as it is spring-loaded.

Since there is so much damage, you don't know what or how much garbage has been floating around the transmission, therefore follow the front pump and valve body sections as shown in the service manual to disassemble and inspect them, to make sure you don't need new ones.

Please post some photos of the front of the input shaft where the wear is so we can see it's not too bad. If you have a caliper or micrometer, measure the diameters of the worn areas, compared to the unworn areas next to them.

The reverse assembly: don't disassemble it, but just submerge the reverse one in solvent and work the piston back and forth to clean it out. The low I have a video on. You will need to replace the cap with the revised design shown in the video.

Once you do these extra inspection tasks we will have a complete picture of what replacement parts you will need.

When inspecting parts, do not remove any of the small piston rings (like on the front pump and planetary shaft) unnecessarily as they are easily broken.

I could not find a planetarie assembly so was afraid that it would be hard to find.

The thrust bearings 2 (pictures) i've found.
Normally when lets say ordering a rebuild kit from any seller you would get all the journal bearings en thrust washers in a kit and also the friction plates?

I will check the valve body did not yet got it apart.
The input shaft (picture) don't have a digital micrometer so can't check with that, wear is minute on the journalbearing places can feel it a bit with your hand but not/almost not measureable.

Thanks for the tip of the reverse assembly and little piston rings