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In performing my first rear wheel bearing repack on my 1954 Convertible, I've encountered some oddities that I'd like to get advice & opinions on. The first oddity is that there is no discernable end play in either shaft. The second oddity is that there are no shims on either end of the axle tube. This led me to believe that the bearings might be damaged, although I was not hearing any noises or feeling anything that would suggest bad wheel bearings. Surprisingly, there is no visible damage to the right rear (haven't pulled the left side yet) rollers, cage, or outer race. I'm wondering if end play and shims are really that important.

Another oddity is the orientation of the inner seal. The old seal has the tapered end of the rubber "doughnut' facing inwards towards the differential. The new seal has a rather large groove in the face that I would have to drive if I orient the new seal the same way. This doesn't make sense to me; I think the drift should go against the broad flat face of the seal. So I'm wondering if the old seal is insalled incorrectly.

I could also use some advice on how to remove the inner seals as I have no puller for that, and also if there are any tricks of the trade to reinstall the bearing cup or outer race. It looks like a mighty tight fit. Thanks.

I'm wondering if end play and shims are really that important.

Extremely important to long bearing life!!

So I'm wondering if the old seal is insalled incorrectly

Open face of the seal should face the liquid, i.e. should face inwards towards the carrier.

how to remove the inner seals as I have no puller for that,

A slide hammer with outward-facing jaws, or just improvise a tool like the one pictured in various manuals from a length of band steel, doubled over with outward-facing jaws. Some folks have drilled small holes in the seal and used a slide hammer with a screw on the end. But most often you can just pry them out with something like a very small crowbar or nail puller.

if there are any tricks of the trade to reinstall the bearing cup or outer race.

Its got to be pressed in very evenly; you can work gradually around the circumference with light taps using a brass drift against the edge. Alternatively you could install the backing plate and sequentially, just a bit of a turn at a time, tighten the retaining bolts to force the cup in. Then check the end play, which can be adjusted at either side as long as only a small thickness (less than 0.050 inch) of shim is required. Remember it's the TOTAL end play (both shafts s a unit assembly), side to side, so if you install a shim after the cup is pressed in, you'll have to tap the opposite side axle to drive the cup back up against the backing plate on the far side to obtain a true measurement of end play.

If the contrary is the problem (the cup is too loose a fit), then just use a center punch and uniformly and in complete circles "stiple" the surface of the housing bore.

I owe O.D. a long-overdue note of thanks for his advice on this project, so thanks, O.D. You spurred me on to find a shim which I thought would be impossible to find. Bob's Packard Parts proved me wrong, he had one .007 shim that is now on the left side.

The right side repack went by the book, although pulling the inner seal was a problem. I went to 2 national chain auto supply stores and neither one had a puller for that seal nor a slide hammer with the screw extension. Attemps at prying the seal were unsuccessful, but I did get it out by chiseling through the seal's front and rear faces in a couple of places, weakening the seal's hold.

The left side was not as cooperative. The shaft will not pull out. Using the hub as a slide hammer worked well on the right but not on the left. Again, a slide hammer with 7/8-14 female threaded end was not available. So I wound up lubricating the bearing using a needle extension on my grease gun. It fit in nicely at the innner race between each roller, and the old grease was pushed out. By the way, the old grease on both sides was not dry, caked or dirty, it actually looked quite fresh. I put the shim on this side so hopefully when making right turns the bearing cup will move, even if only .007 of an inch. That should bring end play within specs and might make it possible to pull the shaft the next time I'm in there.