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All,

Got my Clipper back finally. I had pulled my turn signals (front) out to have the front bezel rechromed. I have reconnected but don't have turn signals. I have rechecked my connections. Appear to be correct. Thinking fuse. On wiring diagram, I see a 30 amp above temp gauge. Do I need to pull cluster out to check? Any other thoughts on what I can check? The car was apart for about three years so I guess it could be about anything at this point

If the car is stock there should be a 10 amp accessory breaker that feeds the turn signals along with the instrument voltage regulator. It is fed from the ign switch and is on the back of the cluster under the speedometer on the other side of the instrument voltage regulator from the 30 amp body feed breaker. It should be the self resetting type so if there was a problem the breaker would trip, be off for a few seconds and then go active again only to trip and repeat the cycle as long as it has power or the excess load remains.

Grounds are notorious issues with the 51-54 front parking light assys and the pot metal grill pieces. I would suggest you try a temporary jumper from the socket shells to a good shiny ground point on the fenders and see if the signals work. If so, many have resorted to soldering or fastening an extra ground wire from the light housings to the fender metal.

If you do not have it already, here is an extraction showing just the turn signal circuit.

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Still chasing the same problem in mine. Pretty sure it's the grounds not cooperating, though I thought I had addressed it. Probably not well enough I guess.

If you find out what's causing your problem I'd love to know.

-Kevin

Thanks for all the information. Turned out to be the flasher. When I jumpered the battery lead to the opposite leg of the flasher receptacle, all turn signals lights came on. Battery to middle leg turns on dash signals. Easy enough

If you are going modern be sure to get a proper flasher for positive ground. The original Tung-Sol units are all mechanical and don't care about anything but having the proper resistance in the circuit to work the thermal heater properly. Some of the modern replacements do care about polarity because they are partially solid state. The modern 6v 535 sold by Napa is one that will work the flashers since it is still done thermally but not the indicator light because that light is worked by a transistor in the flasher which is the wrong type for positive ground. Some of the modern flashers specifically say they are for -- or will work with -- positive ground. If they do not specify anything I would avoid that brand or vendor unless someone can confirm it will work.

Thanks for that information. I have the NAPA unit installed now. I didn't know about the resistor being needed to run the dash indicator bulbs. Is there a direct replacement flasher still available?

There are some original 229 socket based Flashers on ebay at fairly reasonable prices. To make the Napa 535 work the indicator light properly it needs a transistor change.

Here is a comparison between the screw type 229 and the 535 flasher along with information on the needed transistor change as worked out by another poster.

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