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Did a compression test and one cylinder has 35 pounds. I put in alittle oil to check the rings, still 35. Any ideas?

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Pull the valve covers, let the engine idle and check for a stuck valve (one whose stem doesn't come down to the same level of the others). But with 35 psi compression that doesn't improve with oil added I'd say it's less likely that it's stuck than that it's a burned exhaust valve and/or seat, or a bent valve.

Could also be a broken valve spring or lost keeper(s), easy to see when you have the covers off.

Perhaps time for a valve job, not too bad a job as long as the guides are good and there are no cracked seats. You'll probably want to rent a power seat grinder and someone who knows how to use it. I just finished a valve job on a 38 Eight; though the flat rate tables usually say about 6 hours, plan on 2 days not counting waiting for parts, as long as no guides need replacement and no seats are cracked. Would also be a great time to attend to the water distribution tube.

Took the head off today, valves are all moving. Lot of crud, soaking with seafoam and going to scrape clean. I need to know the tork specks and sequence for 51' 200 with 327

While you have the head off check the cylinders for wear. A quick check is to turn the engine so the piston goes down and look for a ridge at the top of the cylinder. Scrape the carbon with a utility knife. A carbon ring can fool you into thinking the cylinder is worn,when it really isn't.

If there is a noticeable ridge you will want to measure the taper with a micrometer. Up to .007 you can get away with new rings. Over .007 you are supposed to rebore and install new pistons but there are special rings that allow you to avoid reboring.

What we are talking about here is a "ring and valve job". Grind in the valves, deglaze the cylinders and install new rings.

This was a standard repair on all cars until the fifties. If the motor was not too badly worn it would restore it to like new performance for 20,000 or 30,000 miles of service.

If it's just ONE cylinder with 35 lbs and the others are 100 or over then you only need to fix the 35 lb one. The others are ok.

It's probably a worn, burnt or sticky valve. Take the valves out, clean and inspect them, and replace the valve or grind it as necessary.

I need to know the tork specks and sequence for 51' 200 with 327

Presume you mean cylinder head torque? The specs and sequence are in the shop manual which you can find on this site. In a nutshell torque should be 740 to 760 pound-inches, or about 63 pound-feet. Do them in several steps, starting at about 30, then perhaps 50, then to final torque, retorque after about an hour of running and after the engine has cooled again. Then check again in a couple of weeks of use. Sequence is basically a spiral starting in the center and head mid-length. See diagrams in shop manual.

Perfect, thank for your help!!!!!

Put the head back on with new gasket, cleaned all the carbon build up. Still no compression, going to test to see if its blowing by rings, intake, or exhaust valve. any advice??

Not to be abrupt, but the same advice I offered in post #2 above in this thread.

If u pulled the head then how well were the valve closeing and seating?????

Follow Owens advice in post #2 about checking springs.

QUITE POSSIBLE that u have a bad timing chain, gears or the valve timeing has slipped.

U had the head off. We don't know how much diagnosis u performed while it was off. All we know is that u scraped carbon ????