Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

I put my starter back in and wired it like the diagram shows, black and two reds together on a large post, one brown to itself on a small post and one light green to itself on a large post. I have the autolite starter with 3 posts. I connected the battery and the starter began spinning, without the ignition on. Tried swapping posts for the light green and black/2 reds and it did the same thing. What am I doing wrong?

The 55-6 solenoids have 4 terminals. Battery is on one large terminal, buss bar to starter motor on the other. The brown and green wires go on separate small terminals. The Cole-Hersee 24103 is a replacement for the correct Clipper solenoid. The senior cars use a much larger and different Delco solenoid that also has 4 terminals. That is the one shown in the wiring diagram and the two large posts are one above the other and not obvious there are two posts in the diagram.

To use a 3 terminal solenoid the battery which would be the black and two reds is on one large post. The brown is the start command from the ign switch and would go on the small terminal and the other large terminal is the output to the buss bar connecting to the starter motor. The green wire is not connected and is taped off because it will have a voltage on it coming from the ballast resistor.

The green wire when used on the correct solenoid is only active for a short period and provides 12v direct from the battery to bypass the ballast resistor and go straight to the coil so the spark is strongest while the engine is cranking. That is a bit of added insurance in case there is any voltage drop due to the starter current. Once the engine starts and solenoid is released the 12 volts feeding the wire is disconnected but since the wire is still connected to the ballast resistor at the other end there will be a lower voltage present. The lower voltage present can't do anything because the contact inside the solenoid is not connected when the solenoid is inactive.

An engine in good condition should start OK without using the green wire and 12v direct voltage but since the coil supply is dropped by going thru the ballast resistor the spark is a bit weaker if the starter is pulling a lot of current. I would get the correct solenoid. Amazon, Ebay and probably Napa will have them.

Here is a diagram of the proper solenoid with the Packard colors as they are connected to that particular brand solenoid.

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As always Howard, thank you for your help. A follow up question is the 55 is a positive ground. The pictures I have when the battery was in the car shows as a negative ground with a red clamp running to the starter on the black wire and a small clamp running to the ground by the oil filter. The previous owner stated that he disconnected the battery all the time because the torsion system had a constant draw, which I found out to be untrue from feedback on this sight. Is it possible that he just connected the battery wrong and that was the reason the battery wasn't charging? More importantly, how do I confirm and correct if need be?

The 1955s were positive ground as built. If you now change the polarity (again?), at the least you'll need to repolarize the generator (the procedure is in the shop manual).

If you suspect the last owner had the polarity reversed, there are a few things in a polarity swap that I would suggest you examine or be aware of before any changes.

Nothing STOCK will be damaged in swapping back but if a previous owner did it on purpose -- say for using a phone charger or any aftermarket accessory such as AC or audio equipment and has also installed a hidden item like one of the solid state replacements for a radio vibrator or a rebuilt torsion level switch during the time polarity was swapped, either or both as well as any accessory could be damaged if you change back. You might want to examine for any possibilities like that.

If nothing is found then go ahead and connect the battery correctly. You might also check the coil and verify it's connection. The proper coil wiring will have the terminal that goes to the distributor match the battery ground polarity. For example, if the battery positive is ground, the coil + should be the terminal going to the dist. The coil works wither way, it is just more efficient if connected properly. No ammeter on a Clipper so no wiring to check there.

The voltage regulator is a question. The stock regulator could be designated for a positive (55) or negative (56) ground but if it has been changed to a universal replacement then no worries. No one has ever explained (at least that I have seen) exactly what differences there are in a regulator so that it is designated for positive or negative ground and what symptoms show if the wrong one is used. Just one more thing to be aware of.

After the battery is installed and the generator is re-polarized, we will assume the generator is in good condition and all will be well. If still no charge there is a quick test to determine if the generator or regulator is most likely at fault.