Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

The torsion level on my 56 400 has worked fine since I bought it until today. It still works, but seems to have a problem. When you push down on the rear, it picks itself up fine with no problem. It waits about 10 seconds or so and then comes up. However when it goes back down, it waits about the same time and starts to go down. It will go down about 2 inches then stop. Then it will go down about another inch and stop. Then it will go down a little more and stop. Each time it stops, it will take a second or so for it to start back. It will make the clicking noise when the motor engages several times when lowering down. It will do this until it gets to where it is supposed to sit and then stop when it is done as usual. I am wondering if something might have a loose connection?

It might be a loose connection but may also be a broken wire. The limit switch with yellow and blue wires closest to the driveshaft is the down limit and usually has the wire tightly wrapped and pulled into a fairly sharp angle where it exits the switch. The wires are soldered to the terminals and the tight bend and vibration has been known to cause a wire to break.

Oxidation of the contacts inside the switch is a problem with long sitting and unused switches and even NOS sitting on a shelf for decades have exhibited the problem. If yours is the original switch it could also be suspect. The time delay is controlled by a pair of heaters which bend bimetal strips to touch a fixed contact. Oxidation can require more and more pressure from the bending before there is a solid connection so it could be making and breaking contact.

The oxidation can be taken care of by carefully using a burnishing tool on the contacts. You need to remove the control switch and drill out the rivets to remove the cover to access the contacts. Be very careful not to catch and tear the extremely thin wires going to the heaters with the burnisher. The cover can be reattached with small screws and nuts.

Here is a complete schematic showing all relay and switch contacts. It also shows the optional manual up/down switch properly connected so its command output also goes thru the limit switches. The main contacts in the control switch that are operated by the linkage and start the timing are labeled 1 and bimetal contacts or those which work the relays after the time delay are those labeled 2 in the photo.

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Should you decide. To change switch.

Here is what the electronic one looks like.

I'm using one. Think the delay is a little long.

It gets down to changing the resistor and capacitor.

Yeah. It could be the bi.metal contact.

But until you go under to check things out.

Brake switch?.

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My '55 Patrician will do that if I haven't driven it for some time. After driving it regularly, it calms down.

So far (small delay while finding a piece of wood to knock on) so good.

I have had mine for 10 years now and I have had less trouble with it than almost any other car I've owned - including new ones.

Everything thing still works including the radio and the clock, although the clock and the gas gauge have been getting a touch erratic. I have had offers from total strangers to "clean my clock" but so far I have been able to do it for myself

As for the gas gauge, I need to get a new combination Ohm and Volt tester, but first the holidays, an ankle injury and then cold weather followed by the recent snow and Silver Thaw (an Ice Storm for you non Oregonians) have put that on hold.

As for the Ice Storm, the '55 and the '51 200 Deluxe (barely) are fine. Unfortunately two carports didn't as witnessed by my '75 Continental Mark IV and '51 Patrician.

I was able to get to the Mark IV but not, as yet to the '51 Pat.

Where is this "Boredom in retirement" I've heard people tell of. I could do with a little.

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In addition to Howard's always excellent advice re: the electrical operation I am wondering if there isn't some mechanical binding occurring that may be causing this start-stop behavior? It would be beneficial to get the car on a hoist with treads you drive up on, not the type where the suspension hangs as the car is supported by the frame. Have someone up top load (work) the system while you watch the bars move.

Following up on what John posted.

Has the front end been rebuilt?
Have new “A” arm bushing been installed?

I was wondering if the rubber is having memory issues?

How are the shocks?

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I think it seems to be in the electrical that Howard mentioned. It works perfectly going up. It did work fine going down until Wednesday. It seems like a loose connection to me. I have a lift, and I'll try to get it on there soon once I get the lift cleaned off.

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I think everything was replaced when it was restored about 2003 or so. It's only been driven about 1500 miles or so since then. The bushings look decent.

packardinfo.com/xoops/html/downloads/STB/55T-1.pdf

I was wondering if you tried #2 on this service technical bulletin. Loosen the upper arm as described, then bounce the car and let the car find level. Then tighten to specs in bulletin.
Just a thought that the rubber memory is not as it should be.