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Due to BTV problems which have stopped me from driving my car at all this year I decided to experiment with a different alternative. This is still a single circuit system and has not yet been proven with me running out of time before having to return to work. I will now be away from home until late November when I hope weather permitting to continue and eventually road test the car. I just thought meantime you guys might be interested in what I have done so far. Parts used were as follows:

5/8'' (0.625) manual master cylinder.
Remote mounted fluid reservoir.
3:1 ratio remote mounting booster.
10 psi residual pressure valve
T-piece connection.

The master cylinder is mounted on a fabricated plate bolted to the existing floor plate this has left the pedal in its original position connected via a home made machined linkage. The fluid reservoir is mounted on the firewall above the steering column on a bracket and connected to the master cylinder with 5/16'' tubing.
The 3:1 ratio remote mounting booster is fitted in the inner fender area above the vacuum tank which I have retained but had to move lower down from its original location.
The master cylinder outlet is connected to the remote booster inlet, the outlet of the remote booster is connected through the 10 psi residual valve to the front and rear brake lines via the new t-piece.
The vacuum boost is connected as previously to the BTV but with longer hose connection to the new booster.
I was initially concerned that there wouldn't be enough volume of fluid moved from the small 5/8'' master cylinder which I chose being the same diameter as the BTV and thought it may bottom out but the system bled easily and a firm pedal was obtained.
I have tried moving the car back and forth a few yards and the brakes do work though at first seem a bit aggressive and I suspect maybe are requiring adjustment at the shoes to balance which I intend to do before road testing. I just hope the standard pedal ratio is enough.
Some pics are attached to more easily see what has been done and I will post my findings again when I manage to road test the car...

Regards,

Dave.

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Dont know what happened to the attached pics but if you click on them I think they open up...?
Dave.

Don't know why the black pictures either but they do open up. Thanks for posting. Since finding my BTV with fluid inside during the AC overhaul, I'm also working on something along the line of Craig's setup with a 7"dual booster. What type of 3:1 remote are you using. Something only available in UK? My car has factory air so things have to be down low and that might be an option also--although I do like the dual so that almost has to be by the pedal to do any good. Am glad to see the small diameter cylinder worked out. I was thinking about a dual 3/4 or 7/8.

Looks great. Only one comment...those are not copper lines are they? If so I would replace them with steel lines. Copper should not be used for brake lines, it has a much lower burst pressure the the same size steel line.

That looks like a modern version of a Hydrovac brake booster. I like it, it's clean, simple, and effective.

Leave it to the British to come up with a simple solution that should ease people's minds about making the "bloody" conversion.

Time for a cup of tea now Dave, good job!

It is a very good solution, but Eric, you surprise me. As much of a proponent of dual masters as you have been in the past, would have thought a word or two. Are you feeling OK?

Thanks for the comments, it's still in the design stages as yet and has to be proven... I'm just hoping it has enough stopping force with the 1:1 ratio pedal and 3:1 booster only a good road test will tell.
The booster is a Lockheed ''type'' they were used on a lot of British cars in the 6o's and 70's and still used today. They are available in various boost ratios for different applications, the one I used is listed for lots of old heavier cars from Jaguar Mk 2's, Bristols and even ambulances.
I used copper brake pipe as that's what I had, it is rated to 2200 psi which I don't think this will ever achieve. Copper is commonly used in UK and I have been using it for around 30 years without any problems. The 5/16 reservoir tubing is Cunifer (copper/nickel alloy) again what I had around. If this proves to work I might also replace the 3/16 lines with Cunifer.

I am also impressed with it's simplicity. I was wondering for those of us that have adapted to front disc brakes could you instead of using a tee to split front and rear from booster could you use an adjustable proportioning valve with line to front using a 2 lb residual valve and the one to rear 10 lbs then you could dial in amount of front to rear braking? Just thinking. Anxiously awaiting test results.

Bill

Can't quite tell due to orientation, but will the power unit be mounted onto the driver side's inner fender?

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If it gets people to dump the BTV then it's a start. Besides, you could always put a dual master on the booster if so required, and this is a good start.


I'd still like to see a dual master on it, but hey, what can I say??