Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

My 56 Executive seems to be the 'red-headed step child' of all other Executives. When it was delivered, the TL system had stopped working, the starter stopped starting, the windshield wiper motor stopped, the gas guage always reads empty, the parking lights stopped working, the dash panel lights don't work, and the stop lights also stopped working. According to the previous owner, everything except the dash lights were working perfectly before the transport to me. There's also about half-a=cup of power steering and transmission fluid leaking every day from a couple of places, not to mention a little motor oil from what looks like the drain plug area.

I had the starter re-built and the mechanic replaced the stop light switch with one from a 70's VW. It starts and the stop lights work now.

The TL system has the tiny under dash switch (with a un connected wire spliced into one of the lt. green wires). It also has two other 'pull-down' switches which manually control the TL system. The left switch lets the vehicle's rear end drop, while the right switch supposed raises the rear end) The right switch will not raise the rear end now, my 56 Executive's ass is on the ground and it won't raise back up.

Where do I begin? It seems that with each problem solved, new ones appear and old ones come back to haunt me again.

I would start by having the mechanic start checking and putting the TL wiring back to as close to normal as possible. With the manual switches added the way they are, and a green wire from the on/off switch disconnected (which feeds the auto level switch) it is hard to say what is happening.

Here is a complete schematic of the schematics for both years. The lower one (56) has the factory manual up/down switch shown.packardinfo.com/xoops/html/downloads/wirediagrams/55-56%20TL%20Schem.pdf

I would hope that whomever added the manual switches made sure they went through the limit switches, otherwise mechanical damage could happen. If they do, then it is possible a limit switch has failed or perhaps the up switch itself has failed.

The lt.green wires are connected to either terminals of the on/off switch, just that there is a wire spliced into one of the lt.green wires. That is the dangling un connected wire. Also is the manual switch in the schematic a single knobbeb switch and what position should it be in during normal vehicle operation?

Thanks so much for your quick reply.

Bob

The factory switch is a single knob three position switch. It normally rests in the center position and the light green wire goes straight through to on/off switch and then on to the compensator switch to provide it power. That maintains complete auto functionality and allows the driver to turn off suspension in the normal fashion.

When manual operation is desired, moving the switch up or down and out of center disconnects the compensator switch by opening the green wire and at the same time grounds one of the wires going to a tie point located in the compensator switch junction box. This works the rest of the leveler circuit just as if the compensator switch relays were doing it until the limit is reached or you move the switch back to middle.

It is important to open the wire feeding the compensator switch when doing manual operation otherwise as you are trying to go up, after a few seconds the compensator would try to go down and both up and down solenoids would be energized at the same time and a fuse would blow.

It is possible from what I understand of your description, if that green wire was not disrupted, and on/off switch was on at the same time you went manual that scenario has occurred. No idea what the dangling wire is doing but if just spliced on but not connected to anything else, apparently nothing.

On your parking lights, they only work in the first position and is a single pink wire from the headlight switch with a splice and then a separate wire going to the junction block on each fender. The key illumination light should also only work at the same time. Are they both out or do you have power at the terminal on fender? Head and tail lights work properly?

The dash lights not working is a common problem with cars that sit. They get power from a terminal on headlight switch and through a resistor which is activated by turning the knob. The workings of that rheostat are very prone to corroding and once that happens, dash lights no longer function until things are cleaned--. Almost requires taking the switch out to do it thoroughly and properly.

You are spot-on! The 30 amp fuse was blown and she's level again! My manual switch situation is not a single 3-position one, but a strange two 2-position configuration which I shouldn't engage until the on/off switch is in the off position! Lesson learned with your patient help.

Now to knocking out the other issues. I'll probably be asking more Packard novice questions in the near future. You all have made me feel so welcome here.

The head and tail lights work. There is a dangling small light surrounded by a metal casing that did illuminate when the parking lights were working. I didn't know what this was for, so I just squeezed the metal casing so it fit behind the heater controls I'll start on the various lights tomorrow.

Thanks again.

Bob

I bet that light is for the ignition switch and it fell out. There should be a hole on the side of the ignition switch where it snaps into.

If the dangling light had a metal hood or casing over the lamp, then that is the ign switch light. It is held by slots on an arm attached to ign switch with open side of bulb pointing into a small piece of plastic and almost touching the back of dash. Insert it by squeezing the sides of metal casing slightly together and pushing tabs at bottom of casing into the slots. It can sometimes be a bit stubborn and if not inserted completely or casing is bent and loose, it will fall out.

There are also lights at each side of dash where the air vent levers and heater controls are. These are sockets which are on a long stalk or clip but bulbs are bare glass. The bulb goes into a hole between the levers and the clip slides onto the sides of the housing the levers mount to to hold in position.

I am finally able to get to work on the lights, thanks for your help. I have completed the replacement of the front turn/parking lights. The plastic on the lens broke only at the screw 'tubes' and all the pieces were there to glue back in place.

I have run into a slight problem with not having the correct tool to remove the light switch (headlight switch removal tool, Part # J-5986?) Is there some equivalent tool to buy locally that will do the job? If not, where can I get the actual Packard tool?