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Am i the only 56 T'Ultra owner that has a leaking T'Ultra pan problem?????

Yes, i've had the pan off at least 4 times over the last 12 years trying to stop the leaks. YES, i even bought one of the famous named T'Ultra service providers gasket. YES i re-coined the bolt holes in the pan before installing it with the new gasket i bought as per instructions with the new pan gasket. YES, I cleaned all surfaces to a surgical level of cleanliness. YES, i even torqued the pan bolts with a torque wrench.

Anything i missed????

Ok. The following pics are of a spare 56 T'Ultra pan from my very original parts car. The pan appears to have no damage nor abuse in its history.

NOTE that the flange has minor-severe to major severe flaring down of the flange. i.e. the OUTER perimeter of the flange is lower than the inner perimiter of the flange.

I have NO other spare pans from ANY automatic trans laying around to compare to.

If someone has a Chevy pan to compare to that would be optimal. ANY pan. Even another T'Ultra pan.

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Did you try some Indian Head gasket sealer?

acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1419010&CAWELAID=109369716

I always use this on trans pans and never have any leaks.

In your post you seem convinced that the leak is at the pan interface. Why so? Leakage is much more common at the seals on the throttle pressure and selector shafts where it drips down on the pan flange and then runs to the lowest place and drips from there, making it appear that the leak is at the pan gasket. Sounds like you've done everything required with the pan itself. Perhaps you need a closer look?

I just checked a Packard V8 ENGINE oil pan. It has the same flare as the T'Ultra pan too. The engine oil pan never leaked. It's the original pan from my now running car.

Yes, the selector shaft does leak. The throttle shaft does not leak.

I had the car up on tall jackstands for over 2 weeks continuously with FRONT of car about 8" higher than rear of car. It happened that way just by happenstance of jacking and supporting.

Wiped and watched the leak 2 to 6 times a day every day for 2 weeks or more. Removed one of the pan bolts near the rite front and oil will come out at a near stream a little smaller than pencil lead.

According to my spare 56 T'ultra ALL pan bolt holes are blind tapped.

I've even resorted to EXTERNAL application of Seal-ALL ("GAS-OIL" sealer) to the leaking area of the flange and bolts. Over 4 oz's applied over 2 weeks and the leak just continues to move across the front flange of the pan from rite to left.

I have a thicker cork gasket i made for the pan. It's about 0.135" thick or a little over 1/8 inch. I mite install it sometime before Christmas. I don't know. It's driving me nuts.

Mine also leaked at the throttle shaft. Turns out the two seals sold in a kit by an unnamed but major vendor some years back were incorrectly sized.

It's been several years since I had the pan off an Ultramatic. You might wanna compare notes on the pan flange with Hank (cli55er), since the Twin Ultra is still out of his car.

A "near stream" of a leak from a blind pan bolt hole with its bolt removed suggests a case porosity issue to me.

I've fixed such leaks in other castings with an interesting version of threadlocker. Loctite Threadlocker Green 290 is a wicking type of threadlocker that is intended for use on threaded fasteners that are already assembled, but it can also be used to fill a pore in metal. However, the pore must be clean and dry, through and through, prior to application.

I wonder where the pore in your case leads to. Hopefully that doesn't mean a teardown for you.

I doubt that the trans will have to be torn down at all. Just remove the pan, analyze the holes and surface area and then replace gasket and pan, peen pan holes flat. That's all. Anything else???

I can live with the other leaks at the selector shaft (PushButton on this car) and welch plugs.

I don't have a trans apart here and can't visulaize the space around the leaking trans pan bolt hole, but if you find a hole/pore, you should try to find out where it leads.

I just wouldn't want the wicking threadlocker to creep in between any parts that would later be moving. Cured threadlocker could cause trouble, there.