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Hi All....
Where in the world can I find a fuel sending unit? Mine is absolutely un-restorable. It literally fell apart in my hands. I have had a few leads but can't seem to get my hands on one. What is the ohm ranges, full and empty? I thought I could use a modern electronic unit with a 0 to 30 ohm range, but it didn't work well. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks a bunch,
Boodog

What year? Kanter has repro 51-56 senders and those years used typical Ford & Chrysler 80-10 ohm range straight resistance senders. Arm length is important though if you are going to adapt another mfgs offering.. Other years used completely different type senders or else different resistance values so need to narrow it down.

X2 on what Howard said. I believe specific years model is in the crossreference.

Craig

Thanks for the comeback....Sorry I neglected to mention that my car is a 1949, Deluxe Eight, Model 2362. The electronic sender I have ohms out at 31.7 high to 1.5 low. It just happens to be backwards, however. I think the range is 0 at full and 30 at empty? The gauge seems responsive, but I would need a variable resistor to test It accurately. It would be much easier to find the proper sending unit. I have been trying to reply for a couple of hours, but it took several attempts to Get a "reply" button to appear. Thanks Guys.
Boodog
PS: I should mention that the new electronic senders have a float that runs vertically in a cylinder. No arm is used.

The stock sender for a 48-50 is the bimetal type and as such is not a true resistance unit. The sender has a heater inside which is in series with the gauge heater. The heaters bend a bimetal strip and in the sender, operates a contact. It is more of an on/off type operation with the cycle times determined by how hard the float arm pushes against the diaphragm and bimetal strip. The changing pressure either delays or hastens the contact operation and heater cooling. The contact on time determines how much time the gauge heater is on to move the needle.

Having said that, there is a poster at the PAC forum who has done some experimenting with a constant resistance unit. From last report he had found a universal sender that would work along with the necessary hardware to mount in the Packard tank opening. Don't believe he has posted any followup info to know if there have been any side effects with the gauge getting a constant voltage instead of the on/off cycling.packardclub.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=2302

If you don't want to try aftermarket or the constant resistance, Kanter Auto or Max Merritt will probably have the proper sending unit but it will most likely be expensive and require an exchange. If your old one has self destructed then without an exchange even more expensive. There were also two size tanks in the 22-23 series so two different senders. Most models had the 20 gallon tank, but if yours is the 17 make sure you get the correct unit for your tank.

Thanks for all the help folks. I will continue to experiment a little. I read the post from the fellow who used the Radio Shack resistors and a universal sender. On the surface, it makes perfect sense. After all, resistance is resistance, no matter where you find it. I have designed and troubleshot controls for HVAC equipment for a couple of decades, but I am still mystified by solid state boards. (Old school) Just relays and wire. I'm learning how sharp the old boys were in1949. At my age, learning anything is quite an accomplishment. I will post my results here should I actually have an original thought. LOL
Thanks Agian,
Boodog

Antique instruments will rebuild the whole unit. Mine needs a new tube, and they quoted $175.

I actually wound up rebuilding my own sending unit. The.tube had deteriorated so that the little crankshaft was totally unsupported. I took two pieces of 26 ga galvanized sheet metal about 3/4" long and drilled the proper diameter holes in the center of each. I then took a snips and cut from the bottom, on each one. I made sure they we the size to slide over the shaft from the bottom. I curved each one to conform to the tube diameter. Forced them into the tube at each end of the shaft. Drilled a hole on each side of each shaft and pop-riveted each one. I fired it up on the bench. It needed adjusted. I popped the cap cleaned and bent the contractors until she was reading right. It works perfectly. It took some time and a couple of re-try's but it didn't take as long as trying to find a good one. A couple hours and 25 cents worth of parts seems like a good deal. I'm still looking for a float. Might just solder on some old carb floats.
Later,
Lyle

Quote:

If float is cork several of the Chevy pickup trunk vendors carry them in several sizes. I was able to match my 47 perfectly. If brass, I believe it is the same as 51-6 used and several Ford vendors carry them. Here is one that looks to be the appropriate size for a 51-6 so you might compare it with yours.ebay.com/itm/1936-1955-FORD-CAR-PICKUP-G ... ssories&hash=item541a4e87f7&vxp=mtr Lots of other vendors carry them with different prices than the ebay offering. If it is just a little off in diameter perhaps the hook can be bent to fit.

I don't know what the float was made of. It was missing when I pulled the sender. Thanks for the link. It looks like that copper one would be just right. Bye the way, I already had a universal sender coming when I decided to tie into the old one. I am curious enough to want to play with it, when it arrives. I will do it all on the bench, so I can send it back if I can't make it work. I will let you know how that comes out.
Later,
Boodog