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An update to the search of a 356 block......

After many months of searching, I was able to find a replacement block that fit the criteria of being very early 1940.........casting date of 06 29 39 with a serial number of C500140. It was in great shape with the exception of a scored cylinder wall.
After the block was chemically stripped, magnafluxed, it was determined that a simple sleeve would repair the score and the balance of cylinders were bored .030 over to fit a new set of pistons.

Today I was able to partially disassemble the original motor and will finally be able to continue with the project.

One question that I have is the removal of the plugs in the oil galley. I would be much more comfortable removing them and provide a through cleaning of the channels prior to the rebuild.

Any recommendations on removal? Heat? They appear to be very very tight as I was unable to budge them with a punch and hammer. Amy input would be greatly appreciated.

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I wanted I would reach out again...............I'm in a holding pattern until I get this resolved.

Any ideas on removing the oil galley plugs? It seems I'm seen a "special" tool for removing the plugs.

Thoughts?

A 5/16 square pipe plug socket would work

Home Depot

I think those 1/8 pipe plugs must have used some kind of shellac or strong sealant on the threads because they can be a pain to get out.

Since you are using an early block you might also want to check the condition of the oil tappet regulator or jiggle pin type valve for any excess wear as mentioned in this bulletin.packardinfo.com/xoops/html/downloads/SC/SC-VOL20NO1.pdf

BDeB,Howard,

Thank you for the response,

There are two different types of plugs that I an dealing with:
1) running along the side oil galley are "screw driver plugs"
these have been impossible to break loose without destroying the slot. This is where I thought I saw a tool that allowed you to apply pressure in addition to backing out the plug.Applying heat may be the only solution.

2) the two ends have plugs with a 5/16" square female opening.

Howard, Thank you for the service bulletin. I wasn't aware of the oil regulating valve and it appears that it is behind the plugs, I'm trying to remove?

I'll continue to tackle this issue and again thanks for the feedback.
Regards,

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The tool that I recommended is for the later engines that use 5/16 square head male pipe plugs. Now see that your engine has the earlier slotted plugs.

I haven't ever dealt with those plugs in particular, but for items of this nature on motorcycles, which are notorious for using rather soft phillips head screws for the cases, often rusted in place, I have often used a manual impact screwdriver like the following. You set it up to turn in the correct direction and then hit the end with a hammer. Soak them in PB Blaster and maybe apply a few heat cycles beforehand using a butane torch. You can pick these up or something like them at Home Depot or your local hardware store:

tekton.com/impact-screwdriver-sets?quantity=1&drive-size=3-8-in

Clean the paint from the area around the plug. Heat the plug and block with a Mapp gas torch. When it is HOT, apply candle wax to the thread area. The wax will wick in, and provide lubrication. Remove plug while it is still warm.

I've tig welded a nut to broken studs before and they screwed right out without any damage to the cast iron block. I think the same method would work on a plug.

SteveP - Why not give the plugs a try (carefully of course) and see what happens? You may be surprised. They are a taper threaded and once broken loose will come out easily; unlike straight threaded bolts and studs which have constant thread contact for their whole length. Don't force them this first time, but give them a try.