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Clutch is not disengaging. All the linkage is still hooked up on the outside. I don't know whats on the inside or how to get to it. I don't see any inspection covers. I'm afraid to take the gear shift lever plate off because something might fall off into bellhousing. Can anyone offer any advice on what I need to do to get my clutch working. Does anyone know where I can find any diagrams for it. Thanks for your help.

I have the same gearbox on my 32 901 so very familiar with you set up. You say that it quit working so assume it did work previously ? If so, then how long between when it did and did not work ? If the car set for a considerable amount of time it may be that the clutch disk is stuck to the flywheel and need only be broken loose in order to retract when you push in the clutch. If that is the case you may need to push the clutch in and have someone rock the car back and forth to break the bond between the two mating surfaces. If you can put the gear lever in neutral you might break it loose by tuning the engine over on the starter. Having the rear wheels off the ground may be a good idea just in case the car remained in gear even though the lever may indicate neutral, or at least disconnect the distributor to coil wire so the car will not start. I cannot imagine the clutch is frozen to the flywheel if the car has run within the past couple of months. If the condition persists then it may be time to renew the clutch. Flywheels will rust in a short period of time if the conditions of storage are in high moisture environments.

I was driving the car and it was working just fine. Then when i tried to push in the clutch there was no pressure when I pushed on the pedal and the clutch would not disengage.
Is there anything on the inside that would fall off and into the bell housing if I remove the gear shift lever?

No parts from the transmission will fall into the bell housing they are two separate things. This does not appear to be a transmission related issue to me. I would get under the car and see if the clutch fork moves freely. It is the long shaft sticking out of the bell housing on the drivers side. It should have resistance against it even when the clutch is engaged. It could be way out of adjustment and even though the pedal moves it might not actually be moving the clutch fork enough to disengage the throw out bearing. If it ran recently then it is likely not a stuck clutch disk rather it is out of adjustment or possible a broken fork or the throw out bearing has come free of the clutch fork which is highly unlikely but possible. Have someone operate the pedal as you observe the movement of the linkage. It will become obvious what is moving. The total travel of the clutch fork is maybe 2 inches. If movement is less than that you need to adjust the linkage. When you press on the pedal it should move freely about 2 inches before you feel the resistance of the fork pushing on the throw out bearing. If it moves more than that before you feel resistance, then the clutch will not move enough to disengage the disk. Also check to see if you have a pedal return spring which keeps the pedal in the up position. Both the brake and clutch pedals should align next to each other. If the clutch pedal is farther in the return spring may have broken also. That is a hardware store or local auto parts store item. I will look up some photos in my archive and post them in the am.

all rods and springs are on the outside of trans. the shaft going into the beelhousing is moving. do i have to take the trans. out to get to the foke and throw out bearing.

Yes the transmission must be removed to get to the throw out bearing and fork end. However if the car ran recently without any incident I am hard pressed to believe the bearing or the fork are the issue. Have you tried to start the car in neutral ? If the fork does not move enough to disengage the clutch plate then it could be the clutch springs on the pressure plate but that is an extreme case as there are multiple springs of different tensions that make up the pressure plate and if one or more have broken then there should have been some noise coming out of the trans area doing that event. Frankly that only happens in racing scenarios where extreme RPM's take place. Removing the transmission is not an easy job. I have attached some photos of what you should find if you remove it. But I would try starting the engine with wheels off the ground in neutral first to see if it really is NOT a stuck clutch disk. You can pm me or we could talk on the phone if you like.

Attach file:

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  Throwout bearing and fork.jpg (156.14 KB)

One option to diagnose, before pulling the transmission.

Remove the floor mats and floor boards in the front. Remove the four screws that hold the gear shift lever assembly to the top of the transmission. With this removed you can see inside to check the operation and condition of the throwout fork and bearing. Except for the four screws holding the shift lever assembly to the transmission case nothing will fall into the transmission by removing this assembly.

This is based on a '32 transmission.

I suspect that your clutch has a disintegrating lining and is jammed. It has happened to me on two cars and on a few that I have worked on. The clutch lining gets old, absorbs moisture and becomes brittle. I would be doubtful of a mechanical linkage problem on a LHD. A bit different on the RHD early cars where transfer levers operate the clutch and brake from the same position as a LHD. Peter Toet

Thank you. I'll take a look. I just didnt want to cause more of a problem without knowing before I opened it up.

Thanks, that could very well be the issue. As soon as I can get back to it, I will try to find out. I will let you all know what the outcome is. I appreciate all the input from everyone.