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Can a ticking noise that only ocurs on the road, under load and past a certain rpm be attributed to a front oil seal? The noise seems to follow engine speed and is regular. My front seal leaked almost as soon as we put it in. As in my previous forum, I do not think this is related to drive train. This seal is the only obvious thing that is not working properly.

HIGHLY doubtful. It's more likely to be caused by an lifter, rod, or possibly the fuel pump. I've had a fuel pump that the arm pivot was worn enough to be clacking. It was hard to diagnose but once found it surprised me to say the least, only one I've ever seen. IIRC, I think it was a Chinese fuel pump at that.

Also, check for an exhaust leak! That can make a clicking RPM based sound. It will be not very noticeable at idle but very pronounced under load. Check the easy stuff first!

Can i ask why your front seal leaks? I've sanded my down to fit snugly over the crank snout and i hope it seals tight.

Maybe your balance is pushing it away from the timing cover as someone suggested to me?

Although I've found a replacement front crank seal for the V8's, I've yet to find a suitable one for the straight eights. The straight eights are just different enough to make it a PITA to get a modern seal to fit. I'll keep ya posted if I find something that works, this may be this week's project.

In my experience, no need to try to develop a modern type front seal replacement for these engines; given proper parts and correct installation the OEM-style seal should provide good service for about as long as the engine itself.

Turbopackman has mentioned a possibility that I've encountered as well, worn fuel pump pivot rod and arm. If not that, then I'd take a close look at the valve train.

The idea behind a modern replacement seal is twofold, better sealing and easier availability. Why spend 3 times the price from one of the Packard parts dealers when you can buy one at your local parts store? Sounds kinda dumb if you ask me.

I'm sure there is some kind of seal that must fit nice in the timing cover and squeeze around the damper just tight enough to seal well. I'm guessing the only way to find out for sure is to take a cover and a damper to the parts store and sit all day in the back and find out which one fits.

I know the seal mfrs make books with dimensions, and some even have websites that will let you search by dimensions (how i found the perfect thrust bearings for the '50 chev suspension) but i'll be damned if i know which book or website to use.

Maybe we could come up with some probably dimension and email it to a seal company to see if they have something off the shelf that would fit?

The cork may work, but i don't know about running it the "life of the engine". My 288 is a decently low miles engine, and that seal was original and leaked like crazy over time. Hoping the new one hold some oil in for a bit.

The problem with the straight eights is that the hole in the timing cover isn't large enough to put a seal in as well as put the balancer in. The solution obviously would be to weld a sort of "cup" on the inside of the timing cover that will hold the seal, ala` Packard V8 style. Getting everything properly centered and then welded is difficult to say the least. The other option is to enlarge the existing hole to allow a flanged seal to be installed on the outside of the timing cover, ala` 3.8L Ford V6 and several other engines. I prefer this method, with a large reinforcing "washer" welded on the inside of the timing cover to ensure stiffness. I like this idea the best, as you don't have to pull the timing cover to replace the seal. This is what I plan on doing on my engines, to allow for a more positive seal and an easier to find seal at that. The original idea of a cork seal rotating with the crankshaft and constantly pushing against the inside of the timing cover has got to be the poorest design for a timing cover seal I've ever seen. There HAS to be a better way.

I'll say it again, the OEM type seal, properly installed and with a timing chain cover that's not damaged, will seal for tens and tens and tens of thousands of miles without leaking.

If you're doubtful, let's ask Ross to respond who has probably installed more of these seals than I have, and he makes a business of doing these jobs.

And I'll say it again, it's the worst seal design I've ever seen. These are Packards, not Harleys. It wouldn't be prudent for the "Soft spoken Boss of the road" to go around marking it's spot all the time. There has to be a better way.