Re: '55 Patrician with Carter Carb, Houston TX
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Home away from home
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Clippers had red engine paint and Carter carbs. A 1955 Patrician should have had an Ivory color engine with a Rochester carb. Even if it is an engine out of a Four Hundred, it ought to be Ivory, not red. And there are other odd and home-grown things going on here in the engine compartment.
Posted on: 2016/4/30 18:18
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Re: '55 Patrician with Carter Carb, Houston TX
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Home away from home
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HH56: Yes, the power windows work with the key off, as does the power seat, and the TL system with a manual 3-way switch that PO installed.
I have not spent much time looking into the TL system except to replace the brake switch with the 3-prong cross reference from this site. I think I would like to find a 55-56 wiper motor so I can use the washer feature. I'll put that on my list... My first efforts are to get the engine runnings smoothly and brakes so that I can drive it around more. I have lots more questions about the car, but probably off topic from the original post so I'll start some new ones. I'll stick with the existing Carter carb for now; don't see a reason to change it but maybe adjust it best I can and eventually rebuild it (once I figure out what version of WCFB it is) after I Also need to get Autolite generator working with Delco regulator, replace oil and temp senders (no gauge indication), then dig into this TL thing and see what is what...... thank you.
Posted on: 2016/5/1 18:40
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Bob
1955 Packard Patrician Sapphire Blue |
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Re: '55 Patrician with Carter Carb, Houston TX
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Forum Ambassador
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I suspected the windows would work without the key. It appears the PO just took the window relay and circuit breaker out of the system and connected the hot wire thru another CB directly to the window feed.
If all the gauges except ammeter are not functional look at the instrument voltage regulator or the fuse labeled instrument cluster in the under dash fuse block. The fuses and the holder have been known to oxidize and have poor contact. Verify you have voltage out of the regulator feeding the gauges. Regulator is located at the rear of cluster at the bottom. A larger rectangular box having two screw terminals sitting between two smaller circuit breakers . Voltage out can be hard to measure though. The regulator is actually a switch which rapidly turns the 12v on and off so that the average out is about 5v. With a typical meter it may just look like a bunch of changing numbers. Seeing no voltage means fuse or regulator but if you see a solid 12v that is bad. It would indicate the regulator shorted and gauges may have possibly burned out. If only one or two gauges are out then most likely a wire or sender. Make sure the wires haven't been broken off at the senders. Oil sender is on top rear of engine block opposite dist and temp is next to firewall on rear of Left head. A possible temp sender replacement is a TS 6464 available from NAPA. I believe -- but am not positive -- it has been verified as a proven temp sender cross reference. I know there is a verified replacement for the gauge style oil sender which can also be obtained at NAPA for less than $20. It is the ECH OP6091. Note that these senders are for the senior cars with gauges, not the Clippers with idiot lights. IIRC, both senders are listed as Ford items. I know I keep mentioning the TL limit switches but can't stress enough how important they are. If the suspension is functional, make verifying they are in the circuit one of your priorities. When you say PO installed a manual switch that makes me shudder. Hopefully it was done in the factory sanctioned way. Too many have just added a switch to make the system move and bypassed the limit switches when connecting it. Next thing you know the compensator has serious damage because it didn't stop before trying to wrap a transverse bar around the housing.
Posted on: 2016/5/1 19:24
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Howard
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Re: '55 Patrician with Carter Carb, Houston TX
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Home away from home
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Thank you. Your wealth of information and willingness to share is extremely helpful to me.
As far as the gauges, the fuel gauge works (put in about 10 gallons and it went about to the halfway point), but no indication at all from either temp or oil. I bought those cross-reference parts you mentioned and just working on how to actually get to the the old parts to be able to remove them. The ammeter functions properly from what I have read of the circumstances. The battery is hooked up with negative ground, and if I turn the key on (without starting) and turn on the headlights, the needle moves right to the 'C' direction. That tells me that nothing was rewired to switch from pos ground to neg ground so that ammeter will run backward. On the list is to swap the wires on the ammeter to make it right. (neither clock nor radio work but I havent started to look into them at all yet). I appreciate the words of caution regarding TL and this has now risen on my list of near term things to do. the manual switch is a momentary lever switch that will move the rear end up or down while it is held in position. I will search for a limit switch. I do know that when I go from Drive to Reverse the back end moves ( i forget if it goes up or down). I'll dig into this and let you know. thank you again for all your help to date. I have many more questions so thanks in advance for those too. -Bob
Posted on: 2016/5/1 22:00
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Bob
1955 Packard Patrician Sapphire Blue |
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