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Just a little more information. Because I found mine with shims on both sides.
Wes

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Looks like according to the repair manual you can, just note the location of the nut and put it back where you found it.
Wes

Count the turns coming off and make it the same going back on.

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I suspect it's obvious but let me say it anyway. Returning the pinion nut to the exact previous position (as described in the previous post) will only give the correct bearing preload if the pinion adjustment itself was previously correct before disassembly. If it was incorrect before, using that procedure will result in it being incorrect again and if so, then it's back to ground zero, a new crush sleeve adjustment from scratch.

Here's a link to a previous posting on replacing the pinion seal.

packardinfo.com/xoops/html/userinfo.php?uid=34287


I certainly agree with OD's comment with regard to the limited ability of a pinion seal replacement of fixing other damage within the differential.

dp

It's clear I need a bit of remedial training on linking to a previous posting. The one I was trying to reference is post 7, dated 2016/7/27, in the thread "1953 Clipper Ultramatic pinion nut size".

dp

This one?

packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb ... um=2&post_id=179131#forumpost179131

Wes

That's the one Wes.

Now how did you select and drop the desired posting?

dp

dp, once you said where to find it, I just went there and did a copy from the address bar and pasted it back in.
Wes

Thanks Wes

dp

Maybe a stupid question, but should the clearance be checked with the gaskets in place or not. It looks like to me, one would get a more accurate reading without the gaskets installed. Then after the correct shims are in to install the gaskets. I'm just saying due to the first gasket I installed, once I torqued the bolts down it deformed it and it looks like I would need a new gasket to replace that one once I get the shims correct. The seal and gasket kit was from Max Merritt.
Wes

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