Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

The bearings don't look too bad in the photos. Lift out the one in the cap. There is often a date and if it's undersize, that will always be there.

The part you asked about is the distributor condensor. Not unusual when changing points and condensor to lose one or the other down that black hole.

jack vines

Well it says FM 2-55 so I guess I'm out of luck on a recent rebuild. The gentleman did have a Kanter catalog and ordered parts. Any chance that could be why? I'm brand new to Packard and am trying to learn. Last question. Any tips if I attempt to rebuild the engine myself to save cost?

What is the S/N of your '55 Clipper engine? At a glance in the photos, the main caps could be '56.

Some random rebuild suggestions.

1. Disassemble the rockers, remove the plugs from the ends of the shafts. They're full of crud. The rocker tips will need grinding.
2. Magnaflux the front balance damper. Not unusual to find a crack down the keyway. I've developed a repair kit.
3. Don't pay restorer price for piston rings. They're just common Ford/Chevy stuff. Do buy moly.
4. Balance the rotating/reciprocating assembly.
5. Confirm you have the later hardened valve spring retainers.
6. Check valve spring tension. Most are soft and will have to be replaced.
7. Confirm the lifters are correct for the Packard and not the later Mopar. (A friend just ordered from one of the largest obsolete engine suppliers and got Mopars. They should know better.)
8. Have your oil pump rebuilt by someone who knows how or use the Oldsmobile pump conversion.
9. Regrind the camshaft.

If one has to pay retail for machine work and parts, it's unlikely to save much money, but at least he'll know his engine inside and out.

If I can help with a rebuild or with the reground camshaft, new lifters, timing chain, piston rings, rebuilt rockers, reground crankshaft, Olds pump conversion, or anything else, PM me.

jack vines

The condenser in your bottom photo may also be part of the radio noise suppression. Check your coil and see if it has the condenser attached and if not, being found under the intake, that is probably where it came from..

This illustration shows the 55 arrangement. With positive ground, the lead is attached to the voltage supply coming in on the negative terminal. If the car is a 56 (or a 55 converted to negative ground), the coil wiring should be reversed so capacitor lead would go to the coil positive terminal. In either case capacitor lead is on the voltage in terminal and not the one going to the distributor.

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Jack, Here are the numbers on the car and block. I will definitely reach out to you about parts. I appreciate your time and knowledge.

Thank you,
Shane

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Thank you Howard. I will take a look at that one of these nights. I really appreciate the info and diagram.

Thank you,
Shane

Hi, Shane,

Your block casting number indicates a 320". What is the serial number stamped on the top front of the block next to the oil filler tube?

FWIW, I've got a NOS 320" short block that I went through with all new bearings and a cylinder hone. It could also be available as a long block with new valves. PM me if interested.

jack vines

What do you guys think the silver slime is?

Nice rebuild checklist Jack.

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Not unusual in a teardown. Probably a mixture of leaded gasoline, old oil and general condensation.

jack vines