Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

Would it be possible to machine a T/l tool if I'd want one someday?

Sure it would be possible to make one, just as Bob Berg has been doing up until recently. His is a bit different than the original to facilitate easier manufacture, and not too hard to make or have made, I'd borrow one of his to see how it's done. Many 55/56 owners have 2 so they can work on both sides of the car at the same time, shouldn't be too hard to borrow one for a short time.

Don't have any idea what current charges are but maybe Randy or greendragon does or you could ask for recommendations when you buy bushings. Most older parts stores used to have a press in their backroom but don't know if they still do. Doubt it would be too bad--such a simple operation.

Having said that, don't think it is something you can do yourself without a press--without risking some damage. The bushings are in very snug and the geometry and dimension of support arm must be maintained. There is a dimension in the service manual, suspension section fig 17 for arm spread.

Suggest you keep that handy for reference & maybe even make a wood spacer to fit along the lines of tool shown before you take it to be pressed so no one gets careless and messes it up. Unless your car is very well secured while the suspension arm off, also suggest playing it safe and using the chain per Craigs post so no one can come along and bump or move things.

Brandon.

I haven't tried it yet, but based on visual inspection it looks entirely feasible to fashion the tool from a derelect 55 or 56 front load arm.

But to remove the UPPER control arm the special tool is not needed. Just place a jack under the lower control arm and raise the car just enuf to remove the wheel. Then remove the upper control arm.

The upper control arm is NOT weight bearing.
As RB indicated above, pay attention to the dimple on the control arm shaft so that it is installed the same way it is removed. See the manual concerning this relative to front end alignment adjustment. Some times the shaft IS reversed.

i'm gonna have to get off here for tonite. however i do have an idea for changing the bushings with out a press. stay tuned!

The local mechanic, a friend of mine. pressed the old bushings out and the new in. One bushing split rather than be pressed out and that one gave him fits. The ears on the shaft are used to press the bushings out. Pressing in was done with a big socket. He said $20.00 would cover it.

Were the pins put in backwards for a reason or would it have been a mistake?

And how would I know if I were to need new pins?

I have new numbers for thoes bushings, and will post them after I purchase and make sure they are correct.

ok brandon, i missed something here. what is up with the pins? as for replace ment, you do not want them to have any play in them. if they do, replace them.

I would post a poc but I have no camera at the moment.

So I guess my best description of it would be that the bushing (closest to firewall) on the drivers side upper support arm looks as though it has "exploded" from pressure.

The opposite side is cracked but intact. So what it's doing is putting the pin at a slight angle throught the arm. And when any movent happens in the car you get a metal to metal grinding noise.

I haven't moved the car since this happened so there shouldn't be any extra wear int the arm or pin yet.

So I went to the parts store and ordered the bushings as a kit, but haven't seen them yet so I don't know if they are correct.

So my next question was/ should be is do "kits" generally come with the pin too? Or do I re use the one on my car?

As for mentioning them being backwards i meant "reversed". I haven't checked yet so I don't know if they are or not.

I can't see the post from here but someone mentioned I need to check how they were installed to put them back in correctly. So I wasn't sure if they were "reversed" if it was a mistake at manufacturing or I that's just how they should be.
Oh and how do I tell if the pin is past it's service life?

That's typical wear and old rubber. The rubber deteriorates and what you have is the result. The "pins" or support arm bracket are reused. There's a little pimple on the top closer to one edge or on the side. Take note where -- toward engine or toward tire. The bracket can be installed either way depending on needs for wheel alignment. The mounting holes are offset slightly so additional range can be had and the pimple just makes it simple to keep track. Unless the bracket is bent or broken, not much to go wrong with it.

Ah, i see the problem. two different people, with two names for the same part! your "pin" is what is refered to in the auto parts industry as the "upper control arm shaft" i thought that last post when you said "pins" you were talking about the "king pins" i'm with you now! so long as the shafts do not have any damage to them they will be fine. if they have any damage, it could cause a weak spot in the pin. so then you should replace them.