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I actually have that very kit installed, which is why I'm surprised there's been a "failure." No matter, I'll just pop out and get a new 2 pronged switch.

I don't have a link to that section because funnily enough I haven't gotten there yet. I got distracted by Kev's exploits with the clock and paint. Now I'm debating trying to fix the clock myself (pretty confident on) and stripping individual panels & priming them myself (absolutely not confident in the least on)

You didn't mention if you are using silicone fluid. If so that stuff seams to dislike hydraulic switches of any type so if you have the fluid you might want to consider going mechanical. If a new switch does not solve the problem check the ground connection to the added relay.

I can't fully agree with that, Howard. Yes, the special 55/56 switch seems to fail with silicone fluid quite quickly. But I know of plenty of pre-55 Packards with silicone fluid that have had a functioning hydraulic brake light switch for 20 years or more, some much more. Sure, there may be the occasional switch that fails prematurely, but in my experience that's very, very rare.

I honestly don't know what fluid is there. Fred Kanter redid the brakes when I bought it from him 2 years ago and I haven't changed it out yet.

So while I was picking up the new brake light switch, working on fixing my dash clock and removing the heater blower to refinish it - I thought "why don't I just get bulk, generic weather stripping."

Is there anything I'm missing by going this route? At least for the doors - excluding the vent windows?

For most of the door generic will work just fine. There is a special molded piece that goes on the body pillar under the fender edge at the front of the door which will only be from Steele or maybe Kanter. Another molded piece on the door bottom which has a metal support with tabs as part of the rubber. Not sure if that piece is available but generic can be made to work by using cement as can the molded piece on the hinge pillar at the top forward corner of front doors. Since generic doesn't have the preformed corner of the top piece it needs to be firmly held in position while the cement dries and care needs to be taken so the corner doesn't bulge or deform and lose the profile so it can't seal.

Generic comes in different sizes and configuration so get the one closest to the profile you have to avoid fit issues. Some GM or Ford strips available in stores looks very close but is just enough different in thickness at one or another profile to make a poor seal. If you don't already have a full catalog download pages 39 and 40 from the catalog at Restoration Specialties and have a look thru their generic selection. A couple are called out as Packard specific but verify with what is actually on your car.restorationspecialties.com/Catalog-PDF.html

Here is some information on the door weather strip. The first picture is the profile of the Steele Packard door weather strip. It's $4.50 per foot. Sorry for the poor picture.

This is a couple of links to the Restoration Specialties weather strip that lists the Packard door seals that Howard mentioned. They are on page 39 of the current catalog.

stores.restorationspecialties.com/4114c-ws-sold-by-the-foot/

stores.restorationspecialties.com/4114-ws-sold-by-the-foot/

It looks like the 4114C-WS is the closes to the Steele profile, $2.50 per foot.

Because I'm not doing a full restoration, I used some generic 5/8" wide hollow core from Bob Drake. It was adhesive-backed so it was much easier to install. Cut the ends at a 45 degree angle where the pieces meet. $1.50 per foot (second picture).

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Nice, thanks!

That's exactly what I was looking for. I'm not doing a restoration, I just want to maintain my car.

Not much work done, actually been collecting a few trim pieces to replace and getting some quotes on paint. However, one item popped up: the damned lifter is ticking again!

I have the Olds oil pump installed and it seemed fine for a good while. Now the ticking is back but intermittently. I was driving to work today, humming along at 50mph and suddenly the ticking starts up. I keep going down the road, knowing there's a place about a mile up to pull over and drop in some oil, figuring I may be a just low enough.

After I came to a stop the ticking continued for a bit and then went away before I could get the oil out of the trunk. I continued on my way to work.

So what could be causing this intermittent tick? It seems to happen when I'm at "high" speed, but since I have the Olds retrofit I didn't think I'd have to worry about oil starvation.

Car is currently being (mostly) repainted. When it's done the only panels that won't be repainted are the drivers side doors, front fender, hood and roof, but that'll all be done later this year. Those are the lower priority since it was all the other areas where the paint was failing and bare metal was starting to show.

Gonna look sharp when it's all done.

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