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Randy -

Sorry to hear of the recent turn of events, but better to find out now, than with the car fully-assembled and driving down the road. Also, the cost of repairs will be relatively small, given the value of the finished car.

I have no expertise upon which I can judge the extent and cost of repairs needed - except to say that the GM store I work in spends about $180 on sublet with a competent machinist just to clean, inspect and shave a pair of aluminun cylinder heads from a V6 (which are prone to warping).

However, the $80 to brush paint the engine sounds ridiculous. Have the engine returned unpainted. You'd just have to remove the manifolds and valve covers to paint it with an aerosol and would get a better quality job by doing it yourself. Your gonna have the engine on a hook to install it anyway.

Keep us posted on your progress. I am especially interested in materials used in lieu of any NOS parts which are no longer available.

I may be incorrect but I don't believe the Packard bronze engine paint is available in aerosol spray, just brush.

I'm surprised that Hirsch doesn't supply all the colors that he has in aerosol as well as quarts, but apparently not. However, it was shown in other threads on engine paint here that his quart product can be sprayed.

So, you have to make a modest investment in a rechargeable spray can/gun or a conventional touch-up/detail spray gun. I got the latter for less $40 at a swap meet and use it for a lot more than just painting an engine. Yet, before I ever had a compressor, a local parts store had equipment to pump paint into a precharged aerosol can for a few bucks; places like that are still out there if you're willing to look.

Point is, I've seen brushed-on engine paint and it never looks as good as a sprayed finish. Why pay top buck for substandard work? I find it hard to believe a judge at any car show with any integrity wouldn't knock points off for brushed-on engine paint. They didn't brush on the engine paint at the factory, did they?

Meanwhile, others have reported acceptable results with ordinary enamels on engines. Hirsch doesn't offer the metallic green engine paint for 56th Junior Series V8s (Executive and Clipper), but my notes show Dupont Dulux 5227DH is a good match.

Along those lines, does anyone have similar paint numbers for 56th Series Packard Bronze? How about 55th Series engine colors? If so, perhaps we should start a thread on engine paint formulas.

What about using one of theseprevalspraygun.com/ for spraying your engine paint?

I have used one for spraying POR15 works pretty good.

I'm going to spray the engine myself as I already bought the paint months ago. I have access to spray guns, touch-up guns, HVLP guns, and an airbrush
But thanks for all the suggestions. I read each one knowing that some thought was put into posting and I like the variety of answers - even the ones I don't agree with.
I'll make sure I post a pic of the engine when it is shining in all its bronze glory.

Try to get a part number and manufacturer of the main bearings that will be used after they line bore the block and caps. YOU may need it ata later date.

I have two lengths of formed rubber. I don't know where they go. At first I thought they were reinforcements for the scuff plates, but they don't fit exactly. I did fill the scuff plate trough with liquid rubber to reinforce them. If anyone knows what these rubber pieces are for, please let me know.

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Randy -
I'm a little behind in raising a question on the oil pump, but, considering all the problems the V8s had with the stock pump, why are you going that route rather than the Melling conversion that Craig has put together? As the engine is out of the car, the machine work can be done to install a full-flow oil filter.

I just looked for his Packard Panther site, and couldn't find it. Has he removed it?


I didn't look far enough - the Packard Panther site is alive and well.

Bernardi

Thanx Bernardi. I was wondering the same thing but i was afraid to ask.

Bernardi, the stock pump worked ok for the first 60 - 75K miles and then it wore the casting because of a bad design. The repair to that pump consists of putting a bushing at the top of the pump. The full-flow filter as Craig designed it is not something that all shops, if any, are familiar with. They would have to study his design and figure out how to machine it. I don't know that they would be willing to do that.
Secondly, I rebuilt my 400 engine and have driven it several thousand miles since the 1999 rebuild with no oiling problems at all. That oil pump is the last design and Terrill machine in Texas rebuilt it. The oil pump I am going to install is the last design and Bob Aller rebuilt it. I have complete confidence in either rebuilt pump. I also have the Melling pump and conversion as an alternative to either one should I need it.
As far as Keith being afraid to ask, I think that remark was made tongue in cheek. Keith has never been shy in voicing his opinions. I certainly wouldn't expect him to stop now.