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West Peterson

Re: 1940 Super 8 160 Model 1803 Project

#141

Home away from home

Quote:

39super8 wrote:

I drilled each end of the crack to stop further spread and relieve the stress. I than veed the crack out and dressed the surface to allow maximum penetration and the best possible repair. I have not yet decided what material I will use, brass or ni-rod. Will think on it this week. I welcome anyone's advice that has successfully made a repair where this manifold is cracked.

A very meticulous and knowledgable restorer told me this:
"Use ni-rod, but preheat with a rose bud to a dull cherry if possible. Then get on it immediately with the welder. Say prayers, cross fingers and hang a garlic around neck... and sacrificing a chicken wouldn't hurt either. Due to their high carbon exposure exhaust manifolds don't like to be welded."

Posted on: 2011/5/24 10:35

West Peterson
1940 Packard 1808 w/Factory Air
1947 Chrysler Town and Country sedan
1970 Camaro RS

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Jim

Re: 1940 Super 8 160 Model 1803 Project

#142

Forum Ambassador

Quote:

HH56 wrote:
How much did AC pulleys have to do with the different hub locations.

Howard, I have no idea. That is something Flackmaster has volunteered to look into. Your AC pulley looks to be the same 3 3/16" depth as Brian's, I wonder if it is specific to 41 / 42? Perhaps '40 had a different pulley. Will be very curious for Flackmaster to share findings, not because I am putting AC in a convertible sedan, but just would like to know.

Quote:

flackmaster wrote:
Kinda hard to tell Jim - the casting numbers are(?) the same, and it appears your pump has a slightly different appearance to the casting/support "fins" towards the nose, and not on the new pump? have they been ground off for pulley clearance?

Objection your honor, counsel is leading the whiteness. Overruled! Would the whiteness describe the pump to the jury? "As we discussed, the casting numbers are the same, and the casting, including fins are the same." New image from different angle entered into evidence. LOL

Quote:

West Peterson wrote:
Quote:

39super8 wrote:

I drilled each end of the crack to stop further spread and relieve the stress. I than veed the crack out and dressed the surface to allow maximum penetration and the best possible repair. I have not yet decided what material I will use, brass or ni-rod. Will think on it this week. I welcome anyone's advice that has successfully made a repair where this manifold is cracked.

A very meticulous and knowledgable restorer told me this:
"Use ni-rod, but preheat with a rose bud to a dull cherry if possible. Then get on it immediately with the welder. Say prayers, cross fingers and hang a garlic around neck... and sacrificing a chicken wouldn't hurt either. Due to their high carbon exposure exhaust manifolds don't like to be welded."

West, thank you for sharing. I am still carefully considering my course of action.

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Posted on: 2011/5/25 1:49

Jim

Re: 1940 Super 8 160 Model 1803 Project

#143

Forum Ambassador

Wind finally permitted painting sundry parts including the starter. Nothing exciting but necessary.

Moved on to addressing an exhaust stud that was in poor shape. Given the terrible state of stock at local parts houses, and length of stud ruling out most if not all local hardware stores, I opted to take a few minutes and make what I needed. Very little challenge in this particular job, but rewarding just the same.

More small steps forward.

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Posted on: 2011/5/25 2:00

Ken_P

Re: 1940 Super 8 160 Model 1803 Project

#144

Home away from home

Looks like you're getting it all back together! I'm very jealous of your shop. I did a little bit of machining in college, and am planning to buy a mill and lathe further down the road when Uncle Sam stops telling me to move.

Also good discussion on the exhaust manifold. The manifold on my 115c is also cracked. A local welding shop is going to tig weld it for me; I don't want to braze it myself, and I don't have the skills or tools for a tig job.

Posted on: 2011/5/25 22:04

1937 120 1092 - Original survivor for driving and continued preservation. Project blog / Registry

1937 115 1082 - Total basket case, partial restoration, sold Hershey 2015 Project blog / Registry

Jim

Re: 1940 Super 8 160 Model 1803 Project

#145

Forum Ambassador

Quote:

Ken P wrote:
Looks like you're getting it all back together! I'm very jealous of your shop. I did a little bit of machining in college, and am planning to buy a mill and lathe further down the road when Uncle Sam stops telling me to move.

Also good discussion on the exhaust manifold. The manifold on my 115c is also cracked. A local welding shop is going to tig weld it for me; I don't want to braze it myself, and I don't have the skills or tools for a tig job.

Ken, you are very kind. All this old junk around here are just things I have gathered in my travels of fixing up old stuff. I enjoy the work.

Quote:

West Peterson Wrote:

The downdraft tube on my 50,000-mile original '40 is black.

Interesting information on the color of filler tubes from the manufacturer being black. That might be why some have found black paint on the front engine motor-mount cradle. I think we have determined that the cradle should be engine color, but they may have come black from the mfc...

West, that makes perfect sense! I am really glad you posted that today in the other thread. Every picture, including the one you and Joe reffered to seemed to indicate the mount was indeed engine color. I think I will go ahead and paint green!

Posted on: 2011/5/27 1:15

Jim

Re: 1940 Super 8 160 Model 1803 Project

#146

Forum Ambassador

All pistons were stamped with corresponding numbers 1 - 8. Last weekend I noted that number one was stamped 180 out from the rest. I thought on this over night and had a very sinking feeling. The next morning I looked very closely at the tiny pits in the piston crown and they didn't correspond to the exhaust valve / spark plug location (hottest spot). Did a quick dial bore gauge check and decided the cylinders would be within service limits if new STD pistons were fitted, especially because the replacement pistons run a couple thousandths looser than the OEM pistons.

Phoned up Egge machine and had a brand new set of pistons and modern style rings on the door step in time to fit over the weekend. As I drew #1 out the split appeared on the opposite side of the cam. How reassuring to verify this hunch was indeed correct. I would have never been able to confidently drive the car thinking the split skirt side was acting as the major thrust surface.

The cylinders had just a hint of ridge. Normally, I would entrust the rigid hone to quickly and efficiently remove the ridge, but wanting to only remove minimal material I opted to ridge ream. The use of a speed handle expedited the job nicely.

Got out the rigid hone for a quick true up pass thru each cylinder. The rear cylinder was a little tough, it is tucked into the firewall pretty well. My buddy john just happened to have some 1/2" hex stock and was kind enough to thread and bring over to make the job a bit easier. Heck, the extension worked great! I was able to hone all cylinders standing on the frame rails and in a comfortable stance.

After all cylinders were honed the mic and dial bore gauge reveled cylinder measurements and new piston to cylinder clearances well within service limits. While this was a costly unplanned repair, I am very pleased to have prevented probable future engine damage.

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Posted on: 2011/5/29 23:17

Joe Santana

Re: 1940 Super 8 160 Model 1803 Project

#147

Home away from home

I'm impressed, Jim. This is the grown-up stuff. I'm just polishing and gluing.

Son John (who rebuilt my engine and who owns Santana Crane and knows this stuff, and will be caretaker of the car in the future) will find this very helpful. Thanks for documenting what you're doing. I think I understand most of it.

Joe

Posted on: 2011/5/30 0:33

Jim

Re: 1940 Super 8 160 Model 1803 Project

#148

Forum Ambassador

Quote:

Joe Santana wrote:
I'm impressed, Jim. This is the grown-up stuff. I'm just polishing and gluing.

Son John (who rebuilt my engine and who owns Santana Crane and knows this stuff, and will be caretaker of the car in the future) will find this very helpful. Thanks for documenting what you're doing. I think I understand most of it.

Joe

Thanks for your kind words, Joe. In reality, you indeed have the tougher job! I am checking in on your project thread multiple times a day to see how you are coming. Perhaps we will have the chance to visit someday.

Not any big progress lately. Sourced some rod bearings to replace the ones I am not thrilled with. Did another flush and cleaning on the engine internals. Also ran into a snag with the floating oil pump pickup. It sunk! I will post a want add in the F/S section. If anyone has an extra, please let me know.

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Posted on: 2011/5/31 23:23

Jim

Re: 1940 Super 8 160 Model 1803 Project

#149

Forum Ambassador

Thought I would pull the damper off the engine last night. Got home and looked. Realized there was little clearance for a normal puller. Thought on it overnight and came up with a plan using some scrap steel I happen to have on hand.

Not a very attractive tool, but I was very concerned about chipping the edge of the pulley and was determined to make a proper puller that would not risk any damage. It took a while to make, but took about 18 seconds to efficiently remove the damper.

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