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The engine block on my 52 Packard 327 inline 8 is cast iron, right?

I'm getting ready to rent an arc welder and "6011" sticks to try and weld a head onto this broken stud that has part of an extractor stuck in it.

I may hire someone with a small blow torch to try and blow out the stud. It's 3/8" and recessed into the block around 1/8 - 1/4".

You can see in the attached pictures that drilling is not working for me, the bits go around the extractor. I've been working on this for several weeks and cannot get it out. A machinist I know really recommends trying to weld a head onto the stud again, saying the weld won't bond with the cast iron around it.

The engine block is cast iron, right? Magnets stick to cast iron, right?

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Yes, it is cast iron.

Thanks Eric. Any luck finding that tranny oil pan?

Carl, good luck getting the broken stud and extractor out, and when you do (and I'm sure you will) let us have the details. You can never successfully drill out thru a broken extractor without first annealing (softening) it, they are just too hard and of course never break with a flat surface. Annealing with a torch, then using an end mill or similar to provide a flat surface, careful center-punching and drilling can be successful.

I won't even keep extractors in my tool box.

Yes, I was just up there this Monday, forgot all about it! I gotta go back up there later this week, I'll pick it up then.

good luck carl! we use this process to remove broken bolts and studs at our shop. the problem is, as owen stated heating an extractor weakens it. so a bolt with an extractor in it is a b%$ch to get out! however, it is the only way i'd even think of try'n to get that one out!

if the engine is out of the car, you should be able to find a machine shop with an EDM. They can use it to remove the metal around the extractor and the broken bolt as well. I have no idea what they will charge for this process, but I'll bet it's a lot less than a new motor.
HTH,
John

that's true also. but i don't think carl want's to pull it. and he can get it with the weld method. i just think it'll be aggervating for a while due to the extractor

Thanks all - it's been a learning process. I'm going to rent the arc welder tomorrow and buy the 6011 rods (1/8th dia) to try and burn into the stud with the weld. (the mig weld didn't hold, broke where the weld hit the stud). The machinist friend said put globs on top of globs, get a lot of weld in there, clean off the slag as I go, and then weld a nut on the top.

I'm soaking it in PB Blaster right now, with a cup held to the side to hold a cap full of PB Blaster against the stud to totally soak it in.

To anneal the extractor metal, will I need more than my MAPP gas? Do I need to rent an oxy/act torch to get the extractor hot enough to soften?

If the extractor is still brittle, you may be able to shatter it with a few well placed hits using a sharp center punch and hefty hammer.......or possibly drill some smaller holes into the remains of the bolt/stud around the edge of the extractor to loosen it up.
John