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Pretty close. Your blocks look a little larger than I used but in the right place. The bottom photo orientation is the way I did mine. Guessed the minimum room the wrench needed and then cut the blocks to fit between the frame and as low down on the arm it could go without getting in the way. I taped the blocks to the arm so they would stay in place while I cranked the armature by hand to set them into position against frame. I think that was the hardest -- the armature needs lots of turns to move the bars a tiny bit -- something I didn't want to do under power in case something went amiss.

It has been awhile but IIRC, with no body weight my arm went to about 1" from frame side before there was no pull on the transverse bars.

sorry for my ignorance, but does you compensator motor not work when hooked up to a battery? mine worked well enough for me to move the bars were I needed them when there was no weight on the frame. i'm guessing the answer is no....otherwise you wouldn't be talking about putting weight down on the frame.

I guess the only other option is turning by hand till you get the bars in the orientation I had mine when there was no weight on the frame. that could take a very long time to do.

Hi Henry

I have referenced your blog a couple times today so I know what your Clipper was like when you were at this point.
The compensator has not worked after several attempts. I have not mentioned that in my blog. I may try one more thing this week to see if it will work but one of the solenoids looks like an old leaky battery. It has white powdery stuff on one end.

Thanks HH for the information

Time has not been kind to my memory.

Stuart,

Can you remove just the motor and not the gearbox of the TL?

I have in the past done this and then used the armature of the motor to spin the gearbox one way or the other. This assumes that the gearbox is in working order.

Others have suggested to use a large screwdriver on a drill.

Manually spinning is an easy solution, as HH points out be patient, it is a 3,000 : 1 ratio so it takes a lot of spinning to move a little.

It took a week for everything to come together but I got the short bars from the TL Compensator off. I used a combination of several techniques given here.

I removed the motor from the compensator so i could move the bars. I discovered that the drag link socket works great in the drill to turn the compensator. Found a adapter at HF that locked in to my drill and fits a 1/2 socket on the other end.

The 15/16 drag link socket was a hair to large for the caps on the bars. I cleaned those slots as best I could but had to grind off just a little on each side to get it to fit.

My 1/2" socket and the drag link socket together were so large that I could not move the bars outward to relieve the tension. My first attempt didn't go very well and both the caps barely moved. It was a horrible angle for holding the socket in place while trying to turn at the same time.

After discussing with a friend I cut a scrap piece of 2x4 into an L shape (shown below)and let it hold the wrench in place. I had to tighten the bars up a few times to make more room as the cap came out. Did the same thing on both sides and it worked pretty well.

I'll remove the whole compensator next time I get shop time.

Thanks for all the assistance.

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Great Idea!!!!!

I got the compensator off so the frame is ready for sandblasting. Will work on that next week.

Now, I have a dumb question.
I was doing a test install tonight of the Olds oil pump and adapter I got from Jack Vines. The pump does not have a place to attached a hose. I've seen images on this site of the olds pump with a hose attached to the side of the pump housing and to the block.

Am I supposed to drill and tap this myself or do I not need one.

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Since no one answered my question from last night I went and found the image that I was thinking of (below). I forgot it was an shot of KevinAZ showing off his Olds oil pump.

Anyway the hose I am talking about is clearly visible as Kevin is pointing to it. I do not have a port on my Olds Pump to attach a line.

Do I need to drill and tap this myself or could this be the wrong pump? It sure likes like the same pump as the image below.

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