Packard Forum Index » Project Blogs

Believe the original trunk seal had molded corners so had a better fit. Personally, I would not cut because IMO, there is a good possibility of the glue joint separating and water leaking into trunk. Once you glue the strip down and the lid compresses it a little more to shape, the bulge or wrinkles will not be nearly as noticeable.

When you install the strip, lay it in gently and do not stretch. If like the stuff I've used before believe it will shrink slightly and if you stretch it beforehand it will want to pull up at the corners. Also cut it a tad long on the bottom and kind of work the excess into the channel. If you lay it in where it looks good at the install there may be a gap at the bottom where the ends meet after it shrinks.

thanks again Howard, I'll leave it be. I have it laying in the track, sans adhesive, just to let it lay out from being curled in the package.

trunk weather stripping is permanent now. looks good.

now....I need some MAJOR help from all you guys still following this blog. I'm a bit frustrated with the rear glass rubber. its not working right. the top of the window is not sealing up right with the lip on the body. its barely hanging on there. I know there is supposed to be a caulking that goes above it, but this is a bit much if you ask me.

The locking bead also will not stay in the channel. it just falls right out. I can push the rubber up some but then it barely fits on the window itself. when I push it up...the locking strip still will not stay.

I am out of ideas, other then the gasket is just not made right. I plan on talking to steele tomorrow because this is just not feeling right. I'm gonna have water all over the back of my car if I leave it as is.

the bottom of the seal is sitting fine and glass is in its channel and locking strip fits great.

it kinda fits in the top left and right corners, but then near the middle of the top of the window it droops down and looks like crap and doesn't seem like it will work at all and it certainly wont lock in place.

i'm kinda bummed you guys....help.

Attach file:

---

  (91.39 KB)


  (99.56 KB)


  (61.80 KB)


  (75.90 KB)


  (79.68 KB)


  (46.87 KB)


  (82.81 KB)


  (94.78 KB)


  (76.93 KB)

Been a lot of years but I had the same problem with the fit of the rear window on my HT and do believe the body build was an issue. Is your wide area on the drivers side?

Can't say if Steele's gaskets are the same exact size as the originals so that could be part of the problem. Kanters may be better but I haven't had any experience with his. Anyway, I had Steele's as that was all that was available then and fought the same issues you are going thru. IIRC, I filled the excess space a bit by cementing a narrow strip of rubber as a filler in the lower groove of rubber to raise the gasket and window off the bottom metal flange a small amount and also did the same at the top by placing the filler on the glass side of gasket to raise just the gasket a bit on the top flange. It was not a perfect solution but seems to have worked -- the glass is still in place. The passenger side fit was OK so the filler was only used in about half the opening.

As to the locking bead, I am firmly convinced Steele's gaskets are made of a softer rubber than the originals and just cannot hold the shape to keep the lock grips in position. I think I resorted to cement and tape to hold the bead together while the cement dried. If you have the same experience as I and are frustrated now, wait till you get to the windshield and also need the softer rubber to hold the chrome moldings in.

I haven' tried it so don't know how it would hold up and others may think it is a bad idea but short of adding some metal, one thing that MIGHT work is to build up the wide part of the flange using JBWeld or some other metal filled epoxy. You could use the liquid on the bottom side by making a dam with tape to confine the stuff to the width of flange but to do the top you might have to use the putty.

They had an issue with early windshields sliding and gasket coming away from the top flange so devised a clip to keep the windshield in place. I don't know if that could be happening on the rear glass but you might look at bulletin 55T-10 and see if something like that could be a possibility in raising the glass and gasket.

decided to call Steele and discuss the issue, especially with the locking bead not staying at the top.

they decided something must be wrong with it, so they want me to send it back, they also had me trace out my rear window on paper....I laughed on the phone and wondered where I was going to get paper that big, they didn't laugh.

I ended up tracing it out on wrapping paper my wife was using and it was perfect. came out great. threw that in the box with a sample of the top and bottom parts of the old window gasket that I found while digging out the original firewall pad and plenum box.

I made a new firewall pad using something called eucaboard...its on the wood trim isle and comes in a 4x8 sheet for 13 bucks.

then I found some black vinyl over by the carpet that I had them cut out 5 feet of. it was already 3 feet tall. that was another 13 bucks.

then I got some of the reflective insulation and found some fiberglass insulation that came in a roll of 2ft by 4ft. for 5 bucks.

total for the firewall pad was 75 dollars, including plastic Christmas tree push pins to hold it to the firewall.

not bad considering repos are 200 plus and I think the way I did it will probably hold back more heat. its a bit thicker then the stock one, but it will smash down when I install it.

the black vinyl isn't original fake leather pattern, but I don't care. it has a groove pattern...can't really tell in the pic. it looks period correct to me and I doubt anyone will really notice.

Attach file:

---

  (93.35 KB)


  (98.97 KB)


  (124.12 KB)


  (104.47 KB)


  (87.23 KB)

Very Nice!

Quote:

I would suggest you verify it will compress adequately and if not, trim a bit around the emergency brake hole and the thermostat valve hole. Get the thickness close to the original.

The emergency brake rubber grommet that costs a pretty penny has a very limited amount it can stretch. The lip has to extend past the firewall metal to hold it in position. If you pull too much or too hard, it is easy to tear the lip. If the thermostat is set too far into the interior, the hoses can't pass the firewall opening and are barely on the valve tubes and will leak. Ask me how I know about both of those problems.

thanks for the heads up. I can smash it down by hand to the same thickness as the worn original, so I think it will be fine. those plastic Christmas trees are great too as I can put them to any depth I want to smash it closer to the firewall.

i'll take a good look at the heater valve opening and thanks for the heads up on the E brake grommet....I did buy that expensive thing already.

cowl seal on. that part was the easiest thing I've done so far.

Attach file:

---

  (105.89 KB)


  (77.82 KB)


  (80.08 KB)

smashing down the insulation. its pretty close to the original thickness.

Attach file:

---

  (82.96 KB)

You're cruising right along! I bet it's nice to be putting stuff back on the car!