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Is the bolt pattern or drum pattern the same?I was thinking of taking the ones off my coupe and putting them on that PACKARD so it will roll on the trailer easier,as well as roll off; all four tires on the vehicle I purchased are shredded. It didn't occur to me at the time to check for the size. Thank you very much for the info.Good to know.

I recently picked up a donor Packard for needed parts. The front tires were flat and shredding, and the rear axles were pulled from the differential, so nothing at all to roll with. We constructed a carriage using 6" x 6" lumber, and four 6" casters (load bearing of 900lbs per) bolted through all the timbers. All supplies were purchased from a local building supply store for about $150. Using a winch on the car carrier, we pulled the car up and onto the carrier with the only caveat being that the ramps must be smooth or covered with wood or you'll risk ripping or bending the casters. We use this carriage to also place and move the engine and trans around... they're heavy buggers. Once in the garage, we're able to use simple car dollies to move the donor around wheelless and all.

As for seized engines, I've found that in most cases, they can be freed up and made to run good as new again. The trick is good penetrating oil and patience. I personally prefer the homemade brew using a 50/50 mix of ATF (Dexron/Mercon) and acetone. Shake in a metal container (wants to separate like oil & vinegar salad dressing), and spray or brush it on. Leave it to sit for a couple hours and when you return it ought to be freed up. Some cases will require additional spray & soak until it frees. As acetone has a habit of dissolving the o-rings and seals in plastic spray bottles, use a Milwaukee SureShot steel spray bottle.

My brother and I are currently rebuilding a 1953 Chrysler 331 Hemi, and it had been sitting outside at a parts yard for 35 years, and the last decade without an oil pan. We tore it apart last week, sprayed it yesterday morning, and when I left the shop tonight the pistons, connecting rods, and crank were all loosening up and starting to turn. It ought to be completely freed up by Tuesday at the latest. Then we can tear it down completely to begin rebuilding it. We have a 1955 DeSoto Hemi sitting in the same condition... frozen up, but we'll get that freed up and working again too.

Good luck with getting the donor home. I'm sure you'll do just fine with it.

Kind regards!

Thank you,PI.

Right now I'm just excited to have another car to pick parts from,and the fact that it's the nine bearing engine makes the tiring trip today worth it and that much more special.My coupe has been sitting in the driveway for three years,so landing this car will get my restoring juices going again.The car's sheet metal isn't rusty,but it's a little banged up in areas.The parts I'm really excited about is both the front and rear chrome trim.They're in great shape.

This next day off (Thursday) is when I plan to go up there and fit it with a set of functional tires so it can be loaded (winched) and off loaded with minimal damage if any to it.I just started the process of contacting transport companies tonight.It's located on a lot basically on the side of a mountain,and it's a mountain with more wicked curves than Julie Newmar and Bettie Page had at their respective peaks.I'm talking very narrow two lane roads with wicked hair pin curves that took even my sporty t-bird to task.It will have to be a tow truck or flatbed to get it out.

Upon cursory viewing,the engine shows no signs of cracks and such.I can't wait to get a shot to steam clean it all and really see it.Good to hear that a freezed engine is not necessarily its death knell.I didn't think so,but I wanted to be sure. The lumber trick you mentioned is about what I envisioned as engine and transmission "holders" also.
So pour the right oil into the cylinders and wait a few days before putting a breaker bar to the crankshaft? Would a product like 'PB Blaster' work in the cylinders for such things? It works great for rusty frozen screws and nuts.

Okay,I gotta run.Thanks for the advice and wisdom.

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I had a packard engine with unknown history and an old timer told me to put a 50/50 mix of ATF & diesel in the spark plug holes and let it sit for a few days and try to move the flywheel a quarter and put more diesel and ATF mix in and do it over till you make a full turn.

I'd like to have the vehicle number, Briggs number, engine # and theft proof number from that 22nd series Custom 8 if you have the opportunity.

Hi Palanirides

Glad you're salvaging that Custom 8, save all the Custom-specific trim and sheet metal parts even if their somewhat damaged, those parts are scarce. If the chromed parts are still good, perhaps 49Custom8convert would be interested in them for his club sedan restoration.

A local fellow here who tinkers with vintage tractors, some extremely rusted ones, swears by the ATF and acetone mix as the best for freeing up seized up engines and other parts. The commercial stuff works okay dependent upon how rusted/stuck the items are, but not as good as the homemade mixture hands down.

Good luck, hope you can save that 356 and it turns out to be good.

Steve

It looks like you have a 23rd series (1949 or early 1950) Custom Touring Sedan (2352). This is a senior Packard and they were some of the nicest motor cars Packard ever made. Congratulations.

(o{}o)

JW, are you referring to the car photo in post #23? That's clearly a 22nd series Custom 8 sedan (2252).

O_D, you are absolutely correct. I was looking at the trim around the trunk and did not notice the tail lights and rear grille treatment. Still, a great Packard.

(o{}o)

I'm really enjoying re-reading all of your posts in this thread.Very informative.The posts on unfreezing an engine were enlightening too.I plan to use these methods to see if both engines turn down the road.

Right now my pressing issue is getting the car home.I've got a lot of great quotes from transport companies,but I don't think they know what they are in for in retrieving it.The car is partially up a small mountain/hill.There is no way a giant eight or nine car transport trailer could maneuver through those hairpin curves and dips -- NO WAY! The short steep driveway would also be an obstacle. My T-bird could hardly stay on that very narrow two lane mountain road.

I went to U-Haul after work today to see what a car trailer rental would entail,and their data (Based on a Studebaker with similar dimensions and weight.No Packards in their listing fwiw) did not recommend towing such a wide,tall,heavy car with their equipment.That's one option out.Towing companies from both Los Angeles and San Diego want between $700 and $750 for the 156 mile journey -- that's almost what I paid for the car.I'm heading up there Thursday to throw some tires on those rims to at least have the car prepared.

I'll keep you all posted.