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Fred, it just sounds like to me Bob already knows he has a problem with the timing chain. He was asking what would he have to remove to replace the time chain. I just agreed with him on "My initial thoughts are to remove the hood, radiator, water pump, and front piece." .
I believe the whole front end can be removed as one piece on some Packards but not sure about his.
Also I'm just saying if he goes that far he should looked into flushing out the block while he's got the front end disassembled and now that I think of it also check the front motor mount and maybe replace it.
And I do take a baby aspirin a day for my health , never thought about giving one to my Packard.
Or maybe I just don't understanding his question, it is sometimes hard to follow with all the helpful advice here. It is easy to replace a time chain just getting to it is the hard part and if we can pin point the problem then this would save a lot of wasted work and time. But Bob said on post 19
"After reviewing the comments it would appear that the valves are opening at the wrong time. There is rotation at the distributor, therefore the timing chain is rotating.
How do I correct that problem?"
And in post 12 he was asking what he would have to remove. Sounds like he is planing ahead.
Well that's my 2 cents in this.
Hope to meet you sometime Fred.

Wes

Fred, I think your first impression that the exhaust valves are stuck open looks more and more probable.
One item that may have caused this is the over heated engine prior to shut down.
My guys are going to remove the side panels to check it out.
the compression is as follows: all cyl 3-8; 0PSI, #1 5PSI, #2 25PSI.
I blew air into #1 and fuel spewed out #4 and #5 plug hole, confirming that fuel is not a problem.
It's looking better.

Bob

An overheated engine usually will not cause valves to stick, the cast iron valve guides expand greater than the vlve stems so valves get looser if overheated. Besides, when the engine cools down all returns to normal. What will cause valves to stick is old varnish smelling fuel, the gumminess gets into the guides and sticks the valves.

Fred, every time I come up with a solution you pour cold water on me.
What next

Bob

OK, I give up. Take the nose off your car and replace the timing chain. I only have 58 years of experience with Packard engines.

Good Evening...All the great mechanics that I know are older than I am( 70) and almost all are grumpy!

One exception Alex Alfaro and he is maybe 52 or so and if it has wheels, then he'll work on it. He is the exception that proves the rule.

The oldest and best I know always says 'Go to the simplest possible answer and start there'. That is what Fred has done...follow the footprints...Ernie

I don't know, maybe we need to start over because, I'm so confused:
first, "as car was driven into the garage for a new starter solenoid and a carb. float check." Then it wouldn't start and it did Backfire. And you had determined timing was off(see post 19).
Now it's being reported that it did overheat prior to shutting down.
Or am I reading two different post.
Yes, check the simplest things first, pin point the problem and then fix it.
I'm just guessing that you was trying to get an idea as to what it would care to replace the timing timing chain. But now I not sure. So I'll just step back and read the out come.
Wes

Fred is it possible the distributor moved and all that is wrong is timing. This was mentioned earlier. I'll check #1 the best way I can; however it is not possible on the 1801 to see the pointer because of its location on the rear of the engine visible through a small hole hidden behind the starter.

The #1 has 25PSI would it make sense that changing the timing slightly would bring #1 up to 85PSI. and would the other cylinders follow?

I once was told by my Cadillac dealer that my 84 engine was bad with 35000 miles. They replaced it 3500 dollars later. I picked up the car and the same problem existed, they replaced the coils on the plugs for $165.00.

I hope you can see my reluctance to start tear down without checking every possible solution.

Another story the Packard lost power on the way back from Nats in Virginia. The add on fuel filter hidden under the car to preserve the appearance of originality was clogged, after $180 of checks we replaced the $7.00 filter.

Thanks
Bob

Correcting the ignition timing will NOT change the compression.

Without going all the way back and re-reading all of this thread, here's my suggestion. (1) For the moment just ignore the ignition timing, it's easily dealt with later. (2) I haven't read that you have determined conclusively that the valve timing if off and that's where I'd start. Check the valve timing; if it's OK then the timing chain hasn't slipped and the reasons for the low compression lie elsewhere. (3) Until you solve the low compression problem, ignition timing is irrelevant because no engine with compressions that low will start under any reasonable conditions.

And lastly, are you certain that your compression test was done correctly with an accurate gauge?

GENERAL LEE - An engine backfire can cause a timing chain to jump. This may have been what happened when the engine was trying to be restarted after the carburetor work. My guess: engine flooded, backfired, and resulting jolt jumped the timing chain. Nasty bit of luck. I would follow O_D's suggestion and check the valves for timing.

(o[]o)