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Making headway. Good for you!!! I hope that the cat was of some help.


I was working on gutting a house. Found wasps, termites, and a whole lotta skeevy grungy stuff - mostly dirt.


I did spend some time communing with the big coupe. It's asking for some attention.

Spent the day wire brushing parts and going through my latest package for the Packard. In the gasket kit are two round gaskets that I assume are the exhaust to manifold gasket. I also have two that are more contemporary from the exhaust manufacture. Which is recommended?

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The round one will compress.

Heat riser side that goes on pipe like you have it

Then thin one goes on top.

It took a while, but the left side of the exhaust is on. while I was under there, I thought it was a good time to remove the positive battery cable. The old one has an emergency bolt on end terminal. I also wanted to clean all of the contacts. Decided it was easier to remove the starter. Two quick questions. Should I have my starter rebuilt and if yes, by whom?
Also, any recommendations on a source for the battery cables?
tackling the right side this weekend.

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I know it has been a while since I have updated my progress. It has been one thing or another keeping from the Packard; the weather has definitely been a contributing factor. Today I heard my car start for the first time. It has not been started in 27 years. Still a lot more systems to address: too many to list now. I have completely replaced the exhaust, fuel tank, new fuel pump, new ignition system from Petronix, had the starter rebuilt. new brakes and brake lines, new shocks, and tires. I will next replace the fuel line from the tank to the engine, and check the integrity of the cooling system.
I cannot believe how quiet she sounds. I am so happy that she started. I pulled the distributor and set the position correctly as per the manual. It was 180 degrees off. I have a spare carburetor and would like to have it professionally cleaned and rebuilt by someone who knows the older carbs. Any recommendations? Any advice on fluids IE: synthetic motor oil? Yes or no. power steering fluid, and is conventional antifreeze fine?
I could not have gotten this far without this forum and greatly appreciate any and all advice.
Thank you,
Marvin

Congratulations on getting the engine running Marvin! That is always a major step.

As far as the carb, maybe Ross here on the forum can rebuild it for you, or at least recommend a good shop.

Congrats Marvin! That's a big step forward .

Regarding the carb, I think you can send it to an outfit like Daytona and they will rebuild it. There are probably other places but I don't know of them. I rebuilt mine for better or for worse.

Conventional antifreeze is good. For motor oil there are a lot of opinions. I have been using Shell Rotella 15W-40 and it's been fine from what I can tell. Some say that non-synthetic does better with seals and less leaks, but I have no idea how accurate that is. I think the more important thing is to change the oil regularly and use a good filter.

-Kevin

Many mufflers have a small drain hole in one or both end caps to allow condensate water to drain off. Check your new mufflers for the drain holes, which usually look like they were punched with an ice pick, and mount the mufflers with the drain hole down and to the rear, if possible. The small holes prevent water from accumulating in the muffler and causing corrosion and excess sooty water being expelled out the tailpipes.

While I am replacing the fuel line, I am replacing all radiator hoses. There is a short hose from the lower port of the water pump to a “thing”. I see no mention of the thing in the coolant section of the manual. My best guess is that it is a transmission fluid radiator of sorts. Does anyone have any documentation on this or a cut-away? Also, today it is raining here so I had to stop, Do I have to remove the thing, in order to replace the radiator hose?

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It is the transmission fluid cooler and it does not need to remove if just replacing the lower hose although it can be a bit hard to get the hose in that narrow opening so loosening might help. If replacing the hose between the pump and cooler then yes it does need to come off. With all the rust around the upper hose connection on that one IMO, it should come off anyway to check the tubes. The coolers are notorious for the hose connections rusting out to the point there can be nothing but swiss cheese like perforated metal under the hose.

There is not much to the cooler. Inside the outer container is a flat stainless steel assy consisting of some plates welded together to form a passage or two. That assy connects to the tubing fittings on the back side. The trans fluid flows thru inside the stainless part while cooled water from the radiator surrounds and flows around the outside of the plates to carry away heat. The stainless part has very few issues but the outer sheet metal water container can rust severely.