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KevinAZ -

I can't offer advice on mounting location and angle of the cooler itself, but be sure to use ATF-compatible hose. Anything less will degrade and leak in pretty short order; I've seen it happen in less than a year on daily drivers.

Gates offers hose specifically for this purpose - in 5/16" and 3/8" IDs, I believe. Any parts store worth their salt will sell it by the foot off of a 25- or 50-foot roll, and it isn't anywhere near as expensive as fuel injection hose.

Great Job Kevin. Glad to see u used the solid lines. I doubt that u will have any body/engine compliance problems with the solid lines. If u should happen to detect any such problems then u can coil a 3 or 4 inch loop in the steel lines kind of like a coil spring.

If u look at any of the Gm product master cylinder lines (73-89 and other years) u will see that they are coiled to allow for body/ frame flexing. I really don't think u'll need to worry about it tho because the lines are long enuf.

Good job, looks very clean.

Does mounting at an angle like that reduce the efficiency in any way? Just asking as I have always seen them mounted completely vertical.

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I completely disagree. The fact these cars still work after 60 years is the reason that people want to buy them. There is some thing great about being able to take something that old, take it apart, clean it, de-rust it, replace any worn parts, and then it works again. The wheel doesn't always need to reinvented so someone can say the reinvented it. Even if someone is not a looking to build a showcar, there is still history in these cars the deserves to be preserved, and not simple preserved in a museum. But as drivable cars.

Once you start re-engineering everything and replacing everything with what you think is better, you are simply altering the vehicle. My car is not a show car by any means. I have tried to be original as much as I can budget allowing. But I have made some trade offs as I know here in So Calif A/C is a must for me, which means 12volt.

Claiming Fluid/Fluid transfer coolers are a joke or bad is an opinion, not fact. As the industry is still using them and has been for 60 years. Every air to fluid cooler I have seen on a car or truck is an Aux type and is always been run in series with the stock fluid to fluid cooler built in the radiator.

Frankly it is get exhausting when every forum thread gets side tracked on trying to reengineer everything, or telling people that the original parts or design are crap. Thats what the Modification Forum is for. I have been very tolerant of all the side-tracked discussions, but at some point it turns the forum into just noise.

Sorry Kevin for hijacking your thread. Back to it.

Thanks Keith, Big Kev & Brian,

I wasn't aware that I'd need a special ATF suitable rubber hose or that they made a coiling type of steel line. But after thinking it over, I reasoned that the steel would last longer given the desert environment I live ih. Rubber parts here in the desert age quickly and I thought they move around a little too much for my comfort also (reasons not so scientific I know).

Big Kev, I picked the angle to minimize the visual effect and I thought about standing it straight upwards too as you suggested, but thought it might be too flimsy so to speak. I still think that the cooler will have enough air flow as I've postioned it. Ultimately, my plan is to pull the TU as I'd like to have a modern 700R4 or similar placed into the car.

As to originality, I have plenty of respect for those who are able to keep their cars as the factory produced them. I love the history of this marque and think that they would have eventually improved some things (that we've all bounced around here in the forum over the years) along the way had the biz not went insolvent.

More pics this weekend when I do the install.

"I wasn't aware that ... they made a coiling type of steel line.."

No. Coil the standard steel line yourself.

As for the T'Ultra in your car. If it works good then just run it. UNLESS gas mileage is a major issue then the 700R4 with OD is in order.

I'd sure like to have an OD trans in my car for gas mileage reasons. But the T'Ultra seems to work just fine as-is so i'm not compelled to change it.

Here's the problem: If a rubber line on the gas line ruptures then the engine simply quits. Fix the line and there is still plenty of gas in the tank to carry on with.

If a rubber line for lubrication breaks then all of the oil is pumped out in short order, especialy with a rear pump as in the T'Ultra. So if u carry enuf SPARE trans fluid the ruptureing of the rubber line is not a big issue except for the possibility of burning up the trans. Most prudent people do not carry enuf spare trans fluid to fill an empty trans.

It's not like a fuel line hose. Fuel line is under vacuum. Lube lines are under pressure or pumping action.

Unfortunately, there is no way to use solid lines to the brakes for obvious reasons.

Using a section of ATF rated rubber hose in the transmission lines are common for vibration purposes. But if you are worried about it, you can always use a flexible braided steel line in place of the rubber section. Check out Summit Racing, they carry all of that kind of stuff as well as flexible braided steel brake lines.

The main thing to worry about when using rubber lines for anything is chafing and heat. As long as it's not rubbing against anything or next to a heat source like the exhaust, you should be ok for years to come. I do like to keep the lengths of rubber hose to 6" or less, as the shorter it is the less chance for something to go wrong. If you do have to run it through a hole in metal, put a piece of vacuum line, cut down the side, as a grommet. You can make grommets any diameter you need and it's cheap. Small diameter vacuum line works great for this.