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The point gap data varies a bit depending on reference source, but 0.015 to 0.017 inch is just fine.

I have no experience with changing from mineral gear oil to synethetic and would be guided by the oil maker's recommendation as to whether a flush is recommended. Not all differentials have a drain plug, some just have a fill plug. If yours is like that, slightly loosen the cap screws holding the carrier in place and let it drain out, being careful not to damage the paper gasket. But there is some risk in this, if you have a drain plug, use it! Fill to the bottom of the threads on the fill plug.

And NO, NO, never drive it with just kerosene in it.

PS - and I think you'll find Glenn's to be a superb teaching manual on auto engine service. Never seen anything else that comes close.

cool deal, thanks, think it does have a drain plug tho I have not poked that end of the car with a wrench for a week due to the not starting thing, I think I have it on the run now! Thanks to all, will report back?

Well I THINK that I did it right but due to the crap way it has been wired I have knocked loose the wire that goes to the electronic fuel pump (this is the first time that I have NOT heard it come on when the key is turned) while putting the cap back on, I can tell by the "I am to lame to even be able to solder two wires together yet I am messing with wiring for some unknown reason anyway" (what the hell is the matter with DIYers!?)BLUE CRIMP connector(total junk!)that is now hanging there, it did used to go to something. (the fuel pump no doubt) I remember taping it along with all the other bald wire. If I can ever get this turd rollin' again I plan to replace several wires on her and rout them like someone with some sense, but like ANY OTHER repairs/upgrades it will have to wait till it is a runner as I like to start the car, then fix an item, then see if it still starts, then move on to the next item. I felt a giant cussing fit coming on, so I am now on the couch for the night. Let it sit there and watch all the GM's move back and fourth under their own power!
Just a thought but when it comes to fuel pumps, are they just "on" or "off" and if they are on they are working, or are they voltage dependent. Could the loose wire that just came the rest of the way undone have been the problem to start with? I mean I have been told by three people that my points were the worst that they had ever seen but it was running on those points when I parked it. Duno? Steve

My Dad was a Furniture Factory Rep who in 1969 was driving a new Chrysler. He was also puting 70K a year on his car and had already placed an order for a new 1970 at the Albany Chrysler Dealer - in the same building that had the Packard dealer. Dad was about 10K miles overdue for new points and plugs but didn' want to spring since his new Chrysler was on it's way. One morning he got in the 69 and started it and made it aboy 300 feet then the engine died and refused to start. Towed in to the dealer given new points and plugs & started right up. Sometimes when points give up they give up.

My Dad was a Furniture Factory Rep who in 1969 was driving a new Chrysler. He was also puting 70K a year on his car and had already placed an order for a new 1970 at the Albany Chrysler Dealer - in the same building that had the Packard dealer. Dad was about 10K miles overdue for new points and plugs but didn' want to spring since his new Chrysler was on it's way. One morning he got in the 69 and started it and made it aboy 300 feet then the engine died and refused to start. Towed in to the dealer given new points and plugs & started right up. Sometimes when points give up they give up.

I set them to .016

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Havn't followed this topic real close. If u still have trouble try running a points file thru the points. Even very old stock having set on a shelf for a long time can get some oxidation.

Check CLOTH covered wire that leads from points to INside wall of distributor. If cloth insulation is bad then replace.

Condensers that are suspect (even NEW ones) can be diagnosed by hanging a new condensor on the side of the coil which means not necessary to remove distributor cap. So it;s ez to try several different condesors if it comes to that. Only time that doesn't work is if condensor under cap is SHORTED inside of condensor. Check condensor wire too for bare spots or pinched. Condensor body must be grounded to engine.

Hi Steve,

Cussing fits are a part of repairs...try to remember that the car invoking such emotion is a Packard, so try to be as tasteful and discrete as possible!

Do NOT use kerosene! Kerosene works b/c it breaks down oil..and since you can never really get it all out, it will continue to break down the new oil you put in. If you suspect that ANY part is that gunked up, you have to take it apart, where you can effectively clean it from the gunk as well as whatever solvent you use.

Also, the 'Heavy duty/severe application' stuff isn't really required...a good, mineral based, (proper viscosity) name brand fluid is practically rocket quality compared to the stuff originally installed, chemical evolution is light years ahead of the brews from the '50's...don't over think (or over spend).

Lastly, my own experience with fuel pumps is that they typically work or they don't..unless you've got a bad/lose connection. However, if it;s the original pump..or you cannot determine that...replace it...they do not last forever, and when they go, they can leave you stranded (which they often do, as they seem to have this karmic agreement with the cosmos to give up the ghost as far from home as possible).

~Bobby

Bobby, thanks, if/when I do have to cuss it, I will be sure to use proper sentence structure, as well as a pleasant tone of voice, after all, IT IS a Packard!

The mail man just fixed it for me, check it out!

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V8, thanks, two more thing on "to be replaced" list, sometimes the little stuff we overlook is the problem, ya never know.