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Very clever bracket fabrication. What kind of individual pieces did u use?????

Check the top of the bolts of the braket. Should be at least graded bolts. Grade 5 should be ok. If the top of the bolts are PLAIN with NO markings then throw them away and get some good quality GRADED bolts. They're not expensive.

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The bracket was not made by me, it was purchased ($45) with the new alternator. It came with all the hardware and is a universal design. I'm not that savvy to create such a thing, wish I was

I started off with that same universal bracket, but what I discovered what in creates two points of pivot, and if the bolts are not tight enough the ALT can shift on you. Also it spaces the ALT out further from the engine, and I need a lightly longer belt. So I used some heavy gauge angle iron, and the some of the piece from the that universal bracket and made my own that has only one point of pivot and spaces the ALT back where the original generator was. I was even able to use the original length belt.

Also with the use of a small spacer, I was able to reuse the original top bracket.

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Kevin, what a beautiful bracket assy, it looks so clean. You're right about the two pivit points. While installing mine on my 56 Exec, it took 4 hands to finally settle the alternator in place. It was like trying to steady a kangaroo on a pogo stick. I call it my 'Bjorn Borg project'

Here are some more pics of my install:

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Looking good!

Thanks Kev, as you can see I also was able to use the top bracket and original v-belt, just barely. The alternator just touches the top bracket and is at it's farthest inward travel. A longer belt can be fitted, but this also prevents any movement or loosening of the bottom bracket, as well.

As far as the wiring, I did add an extra 8 gauge wire from the alternator to the positive battery terminal. Since the original tan (ground) and dk blue (field) wires have no use with the single wire alternator, they are not connected. I did hookup the original brown wires from the alternator to the original regulator. There they combine with the red battery wire and the regulator is used a simple junction point. Inside the car, I added a red 12 gauge 'jumpet' wire between the terminals of the ammeter gauge. All seems to run correctly.

Thank you all and I'll keep you posted of any issues that may develop.

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What does the ammeter read as compared to what it used to do?

For example, with the engine not running turning the headlights and heater fan on without the jumper would typically show a discharge -- on my car about 1/8" to the discharge side. Does yours still give a reasonable indication?

At first the gauge read right in the middle. After a minute or so, I set the headlights on high beam and the gauge moved slightly to the left (discharge). I guess it works.

Sorry Howard, I forgot to mention that before I installed the alternator (w/inop generator), the ammeter always showed about 1/8th inch to the left (discharge). I thot that was ok, but it was only reading the battery as the generator's armature was not spinning and had a direct short. I guess these ammeters don't have much of a swing and the difference between discharge and charge is a very slight movement across the middle point.