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Thanks Ernie,
I'll check that out. I wired up my hazard system, but did not install it yet.
The Power feeds from the headlight switch feed, then a fuse, then a flasher, then the switch, then 4 wires to each turnsignal. They will be attached by the steering column.
Should work well.

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The ledlight website shows a diagram for 4 way flashers that displays if you click the view larger photo link on the page for the LED 6v positive ground flasher. Are you modifying that or coming up with one of your own to tie into the Packard system?

Hi Howard, thanks for pointing out that wiring diagram. I am planning something similar. That diagram is for cars that don't have the brake light and turn Signals using the same bulb from how I read it.
I started wiring it in last night, didn't get good results, and now my blinkers are also not working. Rats. I think my front Blinker bulbs are not grounded well since I re-wired the headlights. I may re-do the wires from the junction Blocks by the radiator to the front turn Signals and also run grounds there. That worked well on the clipper.

Yeah, old wiring in this car. I cleaned the rear bulbs and sockets, and ran a ground from the front turn Signal reflectors to the junction blocks on the front fenders, and the turn signals are working again! I connected one circuit from my hazard switch to the brake switch wire (green) on that 6 way connector on the steering column. That got the rears blinking. Now I have run a wire to the parking lights, which are no longer used. They will be my front hazards. That worked in the clipper, and should do fine here.

The hazard wiring is done and working. A regular old fashioned thermal Blinker can works fine with the load of 4 bulbs. That takes care of the wiring. Now on to some bigger Jobs.
Muffler and exhaust manifold gaskets need replaced, and also the upper control arm bushings.
I sprayed a lot of penetrating oil around and started diging in.
Not sure if I will make the manifolds pretty, or just get things running well.

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You have an interesting windshield washer setup. Is it something you or the previous owner added or could it be stock? I will go on a limb and guess added.

It is the electric actuated version which I don't believe came out until 54 but maybe available late 53 as there is a parts mention of an early and late 53 wiper switch. There is no coordinator and I don't see a provision for one on the motor which is understandable. The motors on the 54 cars were tipped to drop the coordinator below the pump bracket. Actually not sure if the coordinator was offered if the electric solenoid washer was available in 53 but the lid does have the water actuated control for it.

What makes it more interesting is the vacuum supply appears to be connected to the port on the wiper motor that the older washers used. On earlier years that port is actuated by the knob when you turn it backwards but there could have been some changes to the motor to supply constant vacuum. If not, it seems an odd arrangement for a stock setup to have both a mechanical and electrical trigger. Do you have the switch with a center button in the knob that depresses to activate the washer solenoid?

I am pretty sure my uncle installed the washers at some point in the ~1970s. It could be that the washers came from the same 1954 Patrician that the 359 engine came out of. I thought if I posted a picture of the engine compartment I would learn a few things! At some point I will try and get the washers working.
Is the factory correct finish for the exhaust manifold "raw cast iron grey" and for the intake either raw cast iron, or black?
I may have the intake and exhaust coated while they are out.

Here is a picture of the wiper switch on the column. No button there.
I also note that the tag on the carburetor is 985S, which I think is correct for a 1953 327, but may not be the absolute best for a 359 with a 327 head.....That my be a future project to re-jet according to the 359 specs, but should run ok for now.

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I believe the manifolds were just left natural cast iron. If you are going to remove and replace gaskets you might paint over the rust with a hi temp cast iron grey finish for a bit of a better look. Eastwood, Summit and any number of other places on both sides of the ocean should have something that will withstand over 1000 degrees.

You have the non washer switch so to properly use your electric actuated pump will require a 54 switch and a 54 Clipper knob which I believe has the same or a very similar pattern to the 53 knob. You could also add a pushbutton under the dash.

Another option would be to pick up a 51-3 non electric pump setup and hold on to the electric one until you find a switch and the time to rebuild it. With the non electric version all you should need to do is verify vacuum is at the side port when the knob is turned backwards, check or replace all the hoses, and make sure the nozzles in the wiper pivots are not obstructed.

Trico electric washer (and maybe manual) rebuild kits are probably available from some of the vintage Cadillac parts suppliers (McVey may still carry them) and Kev has an excellent writeup in the How-To section showing what is involved. You would not be able to have a coordinator with the electric setup without finding one and you need a 54 motor for it to clear the pump bracket but the coordinator is not an essential piece and easily bypassed on the pump lid. There is a coordinator on ebay at the moment.

Aside from the color of lids and the labels some of the mid 50s Jaguar non electric washers are identical units to those Packard used. A couple of versions were reproduced and might be fairly easy to find new in your part of the world. Here is an ebay offering showing the proper type Jaguar unit for your car but it has the black lid instead of the zinc metal color Packard used. Some of the Jaguar vendors also have the nozzles if your car is missing them.ebay.com/itm/265654314556?hash=item3dda3b263c:g:h8UAAOSwnBJh5b5z

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I am close to getting the manifolds off the engine. I still have to get out the rear most, and the two nuts closest to the center/carb. Those middle nuts are slow going!
Do the studs here go into the water jacket? I have 2 studs backing out, and would like to know if I should drain the coolant before I make a mess.
I found out that the casting date on the Block is 6.14.54! June 14th is my birthday too!