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Thanks, I will go check.

I am starting to think that this might be a starter issue all along. You see it cranks the engine for like 1-1 1/2 seconds and then it sounds like just the electric motor on the starter spins, I let off of the starter right then, allow the starter motor sound to "wind down" and stop, repeat, same thing. Well I HAD thought that when the starter changed sounds like that it was due to the motor attempting to fire but just not for long enough for me to notice. Well I was out there just now and it seems like the amount of time the starter actually turns the motor before it goes to the starter motor only sound is getting less and less, and that's when it hit me!!! The starter doing that CAN NOT be due to the motor attempting to fire 'cause I had knocked the main ignition wire loose from the coil while putting the cap on and temporarily did not know where that wire went, well I tried it then, WITH NO ignition wire going to ANY of my coil ect (made sure of that fact with a test light) and the starter did the SAME weird noise/ giving up on turning the motor over thing. Soo, now that I have a brand new ignition system soup to nuts....How do I check my starter! lol...My bad...lol

....Activating "read the damn manual" mode...

Why don't you bypass everything temporarily and run a jumper wire from the hot side of the battry to the plus side of the coil. You can jump the battery with 12 volts hooked up hot to hot, (I don't know if you are posotive or negative ground). If the car starts unhook the 12 volt right away so you don't damage anything. If the car runs but poorly you might have a too weak battery and/or generator to supply good voltage.

Thanks! I tried that earlier today on the advice of Owen and no dice, I have since concluded from the Motors book that my bendix it going out in my starter and it is not turning it enough to crank it. Anything else I should try just in case, I am all ears. Steve

Your starter motor does the turning, the bendix only engages it to the flywheel. I assume your bendix kicks out just before the engine is about to start.You might be able to pry the bendix with a screwdriver on some types, don't know about yours. If you think it'll run, you could always push start it.

One other thing, if the combustion chambers(cylinders) are full of carbon, it may be flooded. Take the plugs out and blow compressed air into the cylinders. Anything is worth a try.

Will do. Thanks!

A 6 volt starter will crank as fast as a 12 volt "if" you have heavy enough cables and a good battery.

The 6 volt source for the car usually is at the point the battery cable connects to the starter so if your cables are too light the 6 volts for ignition will be low when cranking, which makes for a slow crank and low spark.

The condenser (located inside the distributor) Should be changes out based on the tune-up schedule. modern condensers ain't what they was back-in-the-day. If the condenser fails you will get a weak spark and the points will fail soon. I usually put a touch of light grease on the cam and a drop of light oil on the pivot for the points. Don't use WD-40 for oil.


Jim

If you are using the carburetor starter switch, the condition you are describing can be caused by the turning motor creating enough vacuum to "suck" the steel "contact ball" away from the contacts allowing to starter motor to run free for a moment. If the starter motor will run free as long as you have the starter engaged I'd look at the bendix.