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HH56...please see post 35 on this thread by Ross. He mentions using the screwdriver. On page 6 of the link BigKev provided about the various Ultramatic adjustments, they talk about using a pin. At first I thought it was the screwdriver Ross was mentioning, but I was wrong. I'm sure I am over-thinking it and making it more complicated than it is. I'm just worried that all of these changes I am making are going to screw things up more!

BigKev, if you are reading this, I have a question about linkage color. I was reviewing your blog and noticed you painted the steering shaft in your engine compartment (Page 16) black. The throttle linkage you painted silver. What color did you paint the attaching linkage on the steering shaft? I just painted my silver, but should it be black or is it silver until it gets to the selector control bracket that has the stops? The part I'm talking about is the one I removed the linkage from.

I see the reference you mean so maybe there was a later change or a bulletin advising dealers to do something. The original owner of this bulletin from Feb 53 I now have appears to have drawn a slot on the shaft for a screwdriver.

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You must have a fairly early 51 if it does not have the slot on the end of the shaft. There was bulletin somewhere about discarding the woodruf key; since your lever was on upside down, safe to say your key is long gone. The adjustment proceedure will be easier if you take a minute to saw a little slot in the end of the shaft with a file or hacksaw blade.

Generally AAmco repainted their automatics blue when they did them. There have been MANY hands stirring your pot of soup, but you may be the first to actually follow the recipe.

Your lever should have a hole for a clamp bolt. I believe it is 1/4-28 (fine) thread.

OK...final adjustments made today. I pushed my finger in the choke. No change to the carb linkage. I was supposed to make sure that it kicked down so I don't know what to make about that yet. Measured the rod and it was 2-3/4" above the block so that should be OK.

Reattached the throttle valve arm, but kept the lever loose. Now, follow my logic and if it is wrong, please let me know. OK, instead of filing a slot in the end of the shaft, I figured since I had the pan off still, I would just look at the throttle valve as to where it was. Moved the valve all the way open (equivalent to turning it CCW), and then backed it off a little. Tightened the bolt, locking the lever.

Tried the gas petal and it felt different, but I can't tell if anything is binding yet.

Reattached the shifter selector linkage and gave it a try. Each gear now has a detent that I can feel. Reverse seems slightly loose, but much better than it was.

Unless I hear otherwise that my logic is wrong, tomorrow I will reattach the pan and fill it up. Lets see what happens!

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Wait a second...now that I look at the picture, I think the valve should be all the way in not out. That would be CCW.

Yes, that's right, with the the throttle at slow idle position, the valve should be all but all the way in. AT full throttle, it should be all the way out.

I think your case is a good example of how Ultramatics got a bad reputation. How many individual problems have you had to fix yourself on your "rebuilt" transmission? These things were turned loose on the streets out of transmission shops with everything way out of whack, just ready to fail again.

Thanks Ross...

9-12-10

Had some family obligations this morning. Once I got home, I fixed the adjustment on the throttle valve lever so that it was all the way in and then backed off a little. After that, I reinstalled the trans pan. Didn't notice this before, but it looks like I am missing one of the bolts because it was broken off. Hope it doesn't leak, but I'm sure it will. Maybe I can come up with some kind of clamp if it does.

Filled the trans with 2 gallons of trans fluid. No drips so far. Realized that I don't have any more fluid! Bummer...now I have to wait until tomorrow to buy more and try the gears.

9-13-10

ROSS HELP!!!

OK, I had 7 quarts in the pan. I started the car and ran it for 2 minutes on low idle (or as low as I could get it). Turned the car off and put 4 more quarts in, total of 11 quarts. Really hard to get a read on the fluid level, but I think it is right.

Ran the car again and tried the gears. Now the rear wheels move forward in N, H, L and R!!! Not good! What's wrong! Could the low band be too tight? What should I check? ARGH!!

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That's why I recommended not f'ing with the bands to start with, as it opens up a whole new can of worms.

OK...really close now. Crawled under the car again. At first I loosened the band adjusting bolt on the passenger's side out 2 turns. Tried again and same result. Then I realized I looked at the picture in the manual wrong (thought it was upside down in the picture) so it is the driver's side that I needed to adjust. Put the reverse band bolt back in 1 turn and loosened the L band 2 turns.

Now with the car running, no movement in park, no movement in neutral. H moves forward. L really moves forward and engages with a harshness that I assume is from my high idle. Reverse still would go forward. Shifted it into neutral and then into reverse and reverse now worked! I think I have the L band a little too tight and reverse needs to be tightened a little. PROGRESS!!!

How can I adjust the bands properly if I can't use the procedure in the manual? Just keep playing with them like I am until I have it, maybe turning 1/2 a turn a time?