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Be patient. That car is nearly 60 years old. How many 60 year old GM's F's or C's or 60 year old anything have u tried to resurrect from decades of everyone across 50 states has worked on?????

Maybe u have. I don;t know. But it's not much different mechanically from any other car of that era except that it is bigger, heavier and powerful.

Now i'm an old Chevy man tried and true. Of the post war era I'll argue the best of any industry that when the shit hits the fan, push comes to shouve, the sky is literaly falling and something absolutely positively has to happen RITE NOW then the only answer is any Chevy 53 thru 89 or maybe Cadillac or Buick of the post war era. That argument WILL win everytime.

However, I like something different. ANYONE can keep a Chevy, Model A Ford, Mustang or HD on the road. And just about anyone does.

If u can keep the GM's u have running then the Packard should not present any problems. It's just slower process that's all.

15 years ago Packard was the furthest thing my mind. I was looking for an XJS convert, Cord or Hudson. Long storey short i bought this 56 Exec and drove it home. Parked it under a tree and thot to myself "why did i buy that thing?". 3 days went by before i ever touched it again. Got it running RITE and fell in love with it.

Packard is not for everyone. ASk the man that wants something exquisite AND DIFFERENT!! However I'll admit that the last thing that will pried from my rigamortis hand when i die will be the Chevy i own.

Just frustrating is all, got my starter back and it was not the original problem, it WAS a problem but only due to cracking it so much due to the original problem that I wore it the rest of the way out. Before, I could watch one blade on the fan turn on 1 rev per sec, now you can't even focus on one blade, pulled a plug, I have spark, brought the #1 piston up, popped up the cap and the rotor is right. I have fuel, I have air, I have begun to get frustrated,... Mainly due to the fact that it IS so simple, and SO WELL engineered (love the flip-flop hood)that it is easy to work on....IF I knew WHAT to work on.....Any suggestions? Steve

Have you checked the compression?

No but it ran, then I parked it, and the next day it didn't. I have spun the motor by hand but it WAS NOT easy so I am thinkin' it is ok, might check for the hell of it tho, what should it be in my 288? Thanks

If you get around 100 per cylinder you should be in good shape.

I think my 288 had about 85-95 across all cylinders and ran like a swiss watch.

Also, just because you have spark doesn't mean it will run, and that it's GOOD spark. Try getting a spark tester from the parts store, it adjusts out and lets you know how powerful your spark is. You might have weak spark and it won't fire once fuel gets on the plugs.

For a quick test, put a jumper lead from the battery power (ground i think on this car) to the power lead on the coil going to the points. Should give them full voltage while cranking over. If it fires, might be having a wore condensor/coiling and wiring/connector/resistance issue. We used to do this when our old ford 9n tractor was being a pain, and it would help. Don't leave it on there, take it back off, nut sure if points get full voltage on 6v cars (i think they do, been about 2 years since i went through my ignition) but you don't want the ignition getting power when the car is off.

Thaks guys, I am off to get a compression tester. Also, spark tester you say? That just SOUNDS like a tool I should own. lol

I don't know what the compression ratio of that particular engine is. Someone here ought to know tho or maybe in specs part of manual.

Mukltiply the compression RATIO by 15 and that should give the (APPROXIMATE) maximun compression available for that compression ratio. Works for any engine.

If compression is anywhere 70psi or better than the engine ought to start ust fine. At 65 maybe some slow to start symptoms. Under 55 forget it. However starting fluid works very well to get such engines started.

Make sure all electrical connexions are SCRAPED OR FILED to VIRGin shiny metal. Wire brushing not good enuf. I've ran into this too many times. Just finished a 60 year old 6v wireing system about a week ago. Never heard it run myself. After all the work the relay would only clik. Despite a very clean looking battery ground cable conexxion at the trans bolt i took it off anyway and FILED it clean to virgin SHINY metal, both the cable, bolt and the trans flange where it mounted. She fired rite up with a whimper.

U can check for timing slip with a timing lite while cranking engine. IT doesn't have to start and run.

Spark should be a good sharp BLUE color. Not orange or redish.

Try a KNOWN good coil and condenser. Maybe a coil and condenser from one one of your running GM cars with points ignition. Just because u buy a NEW coil or condenser doesn't mean they are any good. I've ran into bad parts new in box that were bad, especial ECMs. Happens a good 10% of the time if not 20%. CHeck wire inside of distributor. Cloth covered is the wire and can rot real fast.

Just "consulted" hands-on on a VW bug. Reproduction NEW parts that did not fit rite and had to be modified slightly to work. THis happens quite often acrosss replacement parts, NOW more than ever.

What is the number on the spark plugs???? ANd NO, i don't give a rats flat ass what the parts store book says. IF the plugs are too cold then hard/no starting is a symptom.

MUST know the number. Translate the number for the heat range. There is NO other way and that's that.

" ANd NO, i don't give a rats flat ass what the parts store book says."
I'm really starting to like this guy...