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Howard, this example of your workmanship would indicate that the Clipper is going to be one outstanding motor car when finished.

(o{}o)

More piddling around this week while still waiting for parts to arrive

Repaired the overdrive lockout cable assy. Like so many others, this one had the crimp at the rear of the pot metal housing split open so it could no longer hold the cable in position.

I'm sure there are a multitude of ways people have used to repair them but I chose a 5/16 split collar. It is easy to put on over the cable and exactly fits over the broken part. When tightened, closes the split nicely without crushing anything. I added a second one which was machined approx half the original width to a larger ID and then the overall width shortened so it could get fairly close to the pot metal. To my mind covering the large gap between the assy and the working collar looked a little neater although probably overkill since it's not really seen.

Also finished the clutch assy and mated the transmission to the engine. I had the benefit of a cherry picker, the entire assy out of the car and free access on all sides. It was still a mighty pain in the you know what. To all those who have laid under a car and wrestled the trans out singlehandedly using nothing but your arms and willpower, my hat is tipped so far I'd have to grow longer arms to do it.

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Looking good

Howard, progress. I did a similar fix to my OD lockout using a split collar, albeit a longer one. It grabs the housing and cable housing nicely.

(o{}o)

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Yes, Minimal progress but progress nevertheless. Still waiting for the brake tubing to arrive so it can be run under the engine without obstruction before anything else goes in on top of it.
I almost went the the wide split collar for the lockout cable but McMaster wanted $25 or so for their extra wide. I could get two regular width for around $5 each so went cheap.

Today's activity. Spent this morning pulling out the old headliner. I needed to get the courtesy light wiring out so it can get sent to RI Wiring. The run is simple but not part of the regular wiring loom. Figured it had to come out eventually so might as well do it now and get that started since there will be a wait for it as well.

Seems to be an area of confusion on just what and how interior body wiring is done on the 2106. Nothing in schematics so I guess each does his own by experience. Naragansett had the same item listed for a 2106 and 2126 but they are not the same. Talking to a fellow there didn't resolve my questions. RI said all they had done was the 2126 but at least she knew it would be different because of the intercom and limo stuff. Potomac has no website so couldn't judge what they have and Y&Z only lists a loom in 3 big chunks so no idea what they had to offer in smaller pieces. Will get the loom sent off to RI this week.

Anyone used Kanters older model headliners recently? They offer the front to back seams and more fabric choices now than when I used one on a Patrician 20+ years ago. Debating trying one of theirs or just biting the bullet and ordering lightweight broadcloth from Hirsch and have it made locally.

Does anyone have any good straight on shots of this bracket that shows the approx depth, thickness & how it's bent. It's the backup light switch bracket at end of steering column and maybe used for several years.

I had a backup/safety switch in my parts stock but since there were no backup lights on this car, don't believe the bracket was ever installed. Rather than spend a lot for a complete reverse lockout kit, I just need the bracket. Will make one if I can get an idea of the actual thickness and which directions the bends go.

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I believe I have an extra bracket. I replaced the 2 contact switch with the 4, two months ago, and inadvertently ordered the switch with the bracket ("the kit").

A correct bracket has recently been listed on eBay at a good price.

Thanks Don and BDeB & Mal for the ebay headsup. It's close and in Calif so I went ahead and bought the bracket on ebay.