Merry Christmas and welcome to Packard Motor Car Information! If you're new here, please register for a free account.  
Login
Username:

Password:

Remember me



Lost Password?

Register now!
FAQ's
Main Menu
Recent Forum Topics
Who is Online
47 user(s) are online (36 user(s) are browsing Forums)

Members: 0
Guests: 47

more...
Helping out...
PackardInfo is a free resource for Packard Owners that is completely supported by user donations. If you can help out, that would be great!

Donate via PayPal
Video Content
Visit PackardInfo.com YouTube Playlist

Donate via PayPal




damage trim
#1
Just popping in
Just popping in

minelli
See User information
I'm new to the Packard world with a 37 115C. The wood trim on the rear driver's side door need refinishing. I've removed the screws but trim is still firmly in place. I don't want to damage trim which is very solid. How do I remove this multi-piece molding?

Posted on: 8/10 10:27
 Top  Print 
 


Re: damage trim
#2
Home away from home
Home away from home

Fish'n Jim
See User information
I don't do pre-war, so not definitive, but I think you might have to refinish in place. These pre-wars have wooden structure and may not come apart and if you try may damage the door.
There are people that re-do wood structure cars, so if no one has an answer, try one of them.

Posted on: 8/10 12:13
 Top  Print 
 


Re: damage trim
#3
Forum Ambassador
Forum Ambassador

HH56
See User information
I also am not familiar with how real wood was fastened but on many of the fake wood pieces such as woodgrained metal or plastic, they used screws from the back or the pieces had studs molded or welded or prongs formed in them which fit thru holes in whatever the support structure might be. Clips or speed nuts were then assembled over the studs or prongs were bent over from the back to hold them on. On smaller or long pieces such as stainless trim often spring type wire or flat clips that slid in grooves in the trim were used. Those clips just push into holes. On surfaces that could not be accessed from behind they often used a tubular speed nut inserted in a hole and the studs fastened onto the piece pushed into those. Removing a stud type clip or flat speednut from behind is usually not too difficult as long as there is enough room to work but on the tubular push in type, those can be a real problem and too often whatever stud is molded or attached to the piece breaks off in trying to remove it from the speednut.

If you are speaking of the garnish molding around the windows, in addition to screws there is often a series of bumps or protrusions formed in the door sheetmetal that the piece needs to be slightly stretched otherwise momentarily deformed to slide over. This would be the method for the woodgrained metal molding but no idea if there would be something added to a real wood molding that would need to be released in some way.

Posted on: 8/10 12:38
Howard
 Top  Print 
 








Search
Recent Photos
Boneyard 400 close up (11/30/2022)
Boneyard 400 close up
Boneyard 400 (11/30/2022)
Boneyard 400
1937 115c Touring (11/27/2022)
1937 115c Touring
Photo of the Day
Electrical Switches
Recent Registry
Website Comments or Questions?? Click Here Copyright 2006-2021, PackardInfo.com All Rights Reserved