Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

Fred, don't make yourself too crazy here. When you change a lot of things simultaneously, it's actually a safer bet that the cause to a new problem is something you just changed. So, the fix is just to redo as much as is feasible, starting with the easiest... which in your case are the plugs/points/condensor/rotor/cap/timing. Don't forget to lube the distributor shaft, and maybe consider new wires. Make sure everything is tight, including that vacuum advance line. If that doesn't work, then you take it to the next level of complexity like the fuel pump, etc. My bet is it was something in the basic tune up, though.

Thanks for all the help. I went to NAPA and ordered a spark tester. They did not have KD brand. I have many tooks but the spark tester seems like a tool that escaped me over the years. I would like a tool that is easy to use and immediately gives a meaningful result (like the voltage at the plugs).

As for the the fuel feed and ignition, you would not beleive all the new parts I have put in it during the last year. I have replaced everything mentioned by you folks even including pulling the fuel tank and having it cleaned. That is why I am so frustrated at present. I have probably spent $1000 on new parts.

I will let you all know what the spark checker says.

Now I got the spark checker and it is a joy to use. Indeed the problem is in the ignition. The spark was weak and erratic. Sparks were jumping around the edges of the points even arcing to the base plate. I suspected the condensor so I put in a working used one. That calmed down the wild arcing around the points but voltage was still low. I sandpapered the points and completely killed the spark. I know that is dumb because sandpaper can put insulating grit between the points. Then I got a small flat file and filed between the points and the spark came back. Voltage still low however. I put on a brand new coil and the spark increased to over 20,000 volts. Car started right away.

Next step is to buy a NEW set of points and condensor and try that. I am optimistic she will start and run fine once more. My theory is the new condesor failed early in its life and the incresed arcing burned the points.

Hey Fred, what is the Napa part number for that checker? When I asked the counterman about it looked at me like an old cow looking at a new gate.

Ross,
The spark checker NAPA part number is 7002015. Cost is only $13.50 with a AAA discount. Nice tool.

Now that I spent a full day replacing the points I changed my theory. The problem was not burned points. They looked decent. The old coil perhaps was causing the weak spark. I do not know about the wild arcing. Maybe it was a bad condenser.

I did lean one important thing about changing the points: pull the distributor out of the car to do it. The little screw holding the end of the point spring is barely possible to remove in the car, but not possible to replace. I can curse a lot about the design of the AutoLite distributor. It is nearly impossible to get a screwdriver on that little screw because the notch in the side of the housing does not line up with the screw. I do not know if this distributor has been modified or messed with but I suspect something like that. Has anyone else experienced this trouble?

Anyway after all that I put the distributor back in without resetting the dwell and the Packard fired right up. After I check the dwell I think it will be in great shape.

I ALWAYS recommend removing the distributor to install points. Besides being more convenient and easier to accurately set the gap, it gives you the opportunity to check the shaft bushings, pull the breaker plate, examine & lubricate the centrifugal advance mechanism, etc. And on Autolites that use the ball bearing breaker plate, a great time to separate the plates, remove the bearing, clean and repack it with light grease like "Lubripate" or equivalent. Though there may be no difference is performance between the Delco and Autolite units, the design of the Autolite is more elegant.

Another advantage of removing the distributor is on the older models that don't use a preassembled point set. On these, proper practice is to examine the contact of the points, remembering that one is flat and the other slightly convex; the stationary point should be bent if necessary to insure that the contact of the convex point is centered on the other point surface. Also on these older type two-piece point sets it gives you the opportunity to adjust the point tension of the rubbing block against the cam.

PS - just to illustrate the foregoing, here's an excerpt from the distributor rebuilding section on Glenn's, IMO the very best auto manual for teaching general principals as well as theory and practice. Too bad they are relatively obscure, if you have one you are fortunate indeed.

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