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Tim Cole has it right, keep spraying it with penetrating oil and use his methods. Time is your friend, being in a hurry isn't.

I went thru a whole quart of MMO and can of carb cleaner when I was working them up and down the 5 or 6 times I beat them back down trying to work them. Most if not all of the valves still have MMO visible under the valves that has sat on it the better part of a week. These suckers are in there good!

Just pounding the valve down and pulling it back up will do little except perhaps bend the valve head. Standard practice for sticking valves, usually intakes, is to remove them completely, and clean the valve stem and guide bore with lacquer thinner. There are special tools for cleaning the guide but a 38-caliber brass rifle bore cleaning brush works well. You might also consider running a proper size ream thru the guide. Put a cloth under the guide to prevent debris from getting into the engine.

Forget the MMO. AS Owen indicates above use laquer thinner or enamel thinner. An AUTOMOTIVE paint type thinnner, not some cheapy household hardware store thinner. Mite even try carb cleaner.


U keep indicating a process that mite be characterized as moving the valve in an UP and DOWN motion. ROtate, spin, turn the valve simulateously while working it up and down.

Will probably have to go into the tappet chamber and clean the end of the valve stem that sticks out of the guide when valve is completely closed. USe thinner and maybe a small wire brush on end of drill motor or a knife blade of some sort iif valve spring compressor is in the way. The valve stem is HARD as the front seat of hell so not a lot of chance (with in reason) of scratching or damaginf the stem.

In any case the valve must be rotated as it is worked up and down simultaneously.