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« 1 (2)

Re: Torsion Ride Solenoid
#11
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Randy Berger
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I am not as familiar with 1955 as I am with 1956, but in either case the solenoids are grounded thru the small terminal on the top. If the solenoid is actuated when HOT (1955 Negative) current is supplied, then either the wiring is wrong or the solenoid is wrong. You can test the solenoid by running a Neg (1955) jumper to the input side of the solenoid and a ground (POS 1955) jumper to the frame of the solenoid. The solenoid should not engage. It should only engage when a ground (Pos 1955) wire is attached to the small terminal on top. I will also check the X-ref. Let us know what you have found.

Posted on: 2012/9/28 11:48
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Re: Torsion Ride Solenoid
#12
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Randy Berger
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I checked the Cole-Hersee site. Here is the listing for the 24046 solenoid.
http://www.colehersee.com/home/item/cat/168/24046/

NO/NC normally open
Although it shows a metal housing in the picture the description reads: Housing phenolic

Posted on: 2012/9/28 11:57
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Re: Torsion Ride Solenoid
#13
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Cli55er
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https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=653&viewmode=flat&order=ASC&type=&mode=0&start=250

here is when we were talking about it on my 55. they work fine when i test manually.

Hank

Posted on: 2012/9/28 12:27
1937 Packard 138-CD Deluxe Touring Limousine
Maroon/Black 1090-1021
[url=https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/registry/View.php?ID=232]1955 Packard
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Re: Torsion Ride Solenoid
#14
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55 NC Clipper
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Thanks guys for the responses, I figured out the issue. It was me, we switched the car over to a negative ground.

Posted on: 2012/9/28 12:42
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Re: Torsion Ride Solenoid
#15
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HH56
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Am curious if you have the replacement solid state compensator switch one of the regions has been selling. The normal Packard setup is not polarity sensitive.

Posted on: 2012/9/28 13:01
Howard
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Re: Torsion Ride Solenoid
#16
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55 NC Clipper
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Not sure, I have never touched it, how would I tell?

Posted on: 2012/9/28 16:57
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Re: Torsion Ride Solenoid
#17
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HH56
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Not sure how to tell since I haven't seen one up close. If you have had the car a long time and never replaced then probably original If you don't know history, you might be able to tell by looking to see if it looks new or the rivets holding the cover on look original, have been replaced or have screws and nuts instead of rivets.

At any rate, just trying to understand why the battery neg ground you mentioned would have any effect on the problem.
The original switches were bimetal strips which had a small resistance wire wrapped around them. When activated they heated and bent the strips to give the delay. Those heaters didn't care what the polarity was as evidenced by the many cars switched either on purpose or accidentally by unknowing mechanics.

Some of the early solid state replacements did care since transistors that controlled delay and brought in the relays only work one way. Not sure if they still care or if they now have additional circuity to allow mixed polarity.

Posted on: 2012/9/28 17:11
Howard
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« 1 (2)




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