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I think this it the item.

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Yes, there is only one, on the driver's side to protect the filler neck.

I wasn't sure if I was missing one, it makes sense to have a shield for the filler and rubber tube.

Ahhh yes...... now it makes sense. The other big mud trap is a flat, wide diagonal support brace that connects the bottom of the quarter panel up to the floor of the trunk. It acts as a V shaped shelf that collects mud and rusts out the quarter panel right there in the crotch of the V.

Car is now ready for another coat of primer. Got all the obvious dings and dents taken car of, and hopefully either this evening, or tomorrow night I will lay down another full coat of epoxy primer. Then another round of blocking to find all the small stuff and goof-ups.

Hey, Kev.

I don't want to come across as a know it all, but I do have over 30 years experience in the auto body and paint business.

I never use epoxy primer as a sanding primer. I use epoxy first over bare etched metal, followed by body filler, then all my blocking with a 2K Urethane high build primer surfacer such as PPG K38, or Omni equivalent, or even some of the lower priced surfacers available.

I block sand the 2K with 180 on a board, and use a polyester blending putty such as Evercoat Metal Glaze if needed, and knock that down with 80 or 180, followed by more 2K. Then more 180 blocking until I'm satisfied, and then at last two more coats of 2K.

I then do the final sanding before paint with 400 wet, wash it down with water, and blow dry after removing all masking. Then I re-mask for paint, wipe it down with wax and grease remover, blow again, tack it off and begin the color process, as follows.

One coat of epoxy primer as a sealer with a 25% reduction. I try to match the epoxy as close as possible to the value (dark or light) of the final color. No sanding of the epoxy as long as you don't wait more than 7 days.

I go directly to the color next, no re-tacking or touching at all, and if single stage, apply two to three wet coats. If base/clear, apply color until hiding, then clear two to three wet coats.

Epoxy primer is not made to be sanded, unless you wait more than a week before recoating, then mandatory.

I know everybody has their own process, but this has worked well for me professionally for many years.

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Actually it's a Hybrid Epoxy primer. Here is the info on it:

valsparrefinish.com/primers_CPS_999DTM.jsp

Doesn't sound like it would have the surfacing qualities of a high build. I like to use a high build urethane for my blocking and sanding.

I am aware of your circumstances in California- I know the laws are much more stringent than they are here in Florida. You may not be able to use some of materials that I can here.

I need to shoot another coat of this primer as I have a bunch of bare metal areas from the recent body work. That should just about put me at the end of this gallon. Then I will go over it with some high build urethane primer to give me some surface thickness to block against.

The Valspar DTM was pretty expensive, I can get Matrix, PCL , or Axcess 2K High Build Urethane for 1/2 the cost at my local shop.

You are right on the what is available or not out here in Calif. If you are shooting two stage, it has to be water based BC. Single stage, you can still shoot the good stuff, since the the clear doesn't eat up your VOC allowance.

Well attempted to fully prime the car last night, but discovered upon opening the can that I had far less primer than I though. Basically I didn't even have enough for one full paint gun's worth, which obviously was not enough to hit the entire car. So I tried to get all the bare patches and where the filler work was. ran out just as I was geting to the passenger side quarter panel (grumble...grumble).

Anyway, here is a picture. The primer looks spotty in places as I was selectively spraying where the bare and filler spots were.

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