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Does anyone know the size/diameter of the water pump packing that would be use for my '31 833?

Thanks

Tom, I don't have the info you want but are you aware that there is a vendor for the precut split rings for your pump that advertises regularly in Hemmings? Also any good plumbing supply store can supply you with graphited cord that works well - that's what I used 30 years ago and have never had to touch it again. The cord is probably available in several diameters, which I had was a smaller diameter, maybe 5/16 or so, so you have to wind it in place and then form it with the packing nut, and repeat this several times until you've filled the cavity to a reasonable depth.

Dave,

Thanks for your valuable input and installation tips.

My younger brother is going to pick some up from the refinery machine shop I will just have him pick out a few different sizes in the 5/16 range for me.

Tom, nothing magic about the 5/16 size, that's just what I happened to have on hand. Any diameter smaller than the cavity will work fine, but graphited cord packing is normally sold in fairly small diameters and is used for packing industrial pumps seals, faucet and valve stems, etc.

The secret when using the cord instead of the preformed split (square section) rings that are available is to make sure the cavity is thoroughly filled by adding packing, compressing it into shape by tightening the gland nut, and repeating as often as necessary. The preformed split rings makes it go a little faster but in the end not any better. Remember that an occasional drip of coolant thru the packing is what lubricates the shaft so the best result is one where you'll get an occasional drip of coolant from the gland nut. Duplicates of the original pump gland nut wrench are available from Byron York.

5/16" is to big. My brother had also brought me some 1/4" and it fits in the cavity but we could not get the gland nut threads to start. No matter how hard we tried to get the packing pushed far enough into the cavity.

Is the packing suppose to just get packed into the pump cavity or should it also go up in the gland nut?

My brother is going to order some 3/16" and 1/8". We will give them a try later in the week. I will come back and post what size worked.

Is the packing suppose to just get packed into the pump cavity or should it also go up in the gland nut?


Tom, pump details may vary slightly between yours and mine but note that the end of the packing gland nut is finished in a concave shape so yes, to a small extent the packing extends into the nut cavity but unless you're using OEM packing rings of the exact shape, you'll only achieve that by tightening the gland over the soft packing until it's formed to shape. It may be necessary to remove the packing nut and add more packing and reshape one or more times. If it's done well, should easily last for 40,000 miles or so. I've repacked an early Pierce-Arrow pump of similar construction in the same manner with likewise very good results. Hope the picture helps.

I've also heard of folks who tried telfon cord or rope (not tape) of a very small diameter such as might be used on faucet stems. Problem is that it doesn't easily deform to take the shape of the cavity so it may require rather frequent repackings and readjustments of the gland. I've also heard that it's more abusive to the shaft surface but can't substantiate that comment.

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Dave,

The picture you posted sure does help and is a thousand words.

We will follow your advice and pack it as much as we can with the smaller size.

We were afraid last night when the nut was not grabbing enough threads that is would back out on us. We don't want to strip any threads on the pump.

Sure hope we can get 40,000+ out of her.

Update on our progress. Brother had picked up some 3/16 and 1/8 and we found the 1/8 to work best for us. We tried the 3/16 but we could not get the nut to start.

Suppose to be nice this weekend. Will take Old Bessie out for a ride and then check to see if we have only a drip here and there compare to having a puddle on the ground.

Since we have the pump apart and antifreeze drained I also pull the exhaust manifold because the rear stud was leaking antifreeze also. I resealed the thread with some high temp gasket compound. Xfingers and hope it holds this time.

Why did Packard build these blocks with the holes drilled right into the water jacket is a bit strange to me but it is what it is.

HAPPY PACKIN ALL

I know this is an old thread but being new to the site I wanted to see if it could be revived! I just purchased a 1931 packard 826. It is leaking a small amount of antifreeze from the water pump shaft (small puddle). I tried the packing nut but it is very tight, not frozen but tight. I want to try and put new packing in. The question is should I try to remove old packing or just add new?

I would recommend using a small pick and removing the old packing to the best of your ability. If the condition of the pump is unknown, it might be easier to just have the whole thing rebuilt. I've used Arthur Gould rebuilding multiple times with great success.